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Overview

Grade: 5

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 110m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 13

Climbing the 'E - Trogkofel Südwand' (South Face) on Trogkofel is an encounter with a true alpine classic. Graded a sustained 5 on the UIAA scale, this route offers a fantastic challenge for experienced climbers. The approach itself through the stunning Carnic Alps sets the stage, leading you to the imposing south face. Once tied in, the character of the climb becomes immediately apparent: solid limestone, intricate crack systems, exposed slabs, and challenging dihedrals. Each pitch demands thoughtful movement, precise footwork, and a good head for heights. While not extreme, the Grade 5 ensures continuous, engaging climbing where finding the optimal line and placing secure protection (often traditional, supplemented by older pitons) are key. The exposure grows with every meter gained, opening up breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys. Reaching the summit of Trogkofel after hours of focused climbing is an immense reward – a feeling of profound accomplishment and connection with the raw beauty of the mountains. The descent, often involving careful rappels and intricate downclimbing, is a final, integral part of this memorable alpine adventure.
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