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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Proxyma
Up the plateau (SE) face along the crack to the ring and then up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Persefona
In the right part of the SW face, via a crack to the pillar. Follow the "Hand Crack"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Persefona
In the left part of the NE face, via a crack to the pillar and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
7-/7
Hádes
In the middle of the NE face, via a crack to the ring. To the right, through a fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hádes
From the NE, via a crack and chimney to the pre-summit and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Hádes
To the left of the northern edge, via a crack (ring) to the pillars. Traverse to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hádes
In the right part of the NE face, via a slanted crack through a small cave to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hádes
From the western edge, traverse left up the wall to a crack (ring), along it and via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hádes
From the SW, up the wall to the ring, via the gully and chimney to the pre-summit. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Midas
From the N, via the chimney to the pillar, then aid climbing and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Díogenés
From the SE, via the chimney and the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Midas
Up the wall along the southern edge (from Hádes) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Díogenés
Up the Náhorní (NE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kerberos
Up the SW wall into a crack, along it and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kerberos
From the start of the old route, straight up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kerberos
From the southern edge of the tower, traverse right along the ledge to the ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Orfeus
From the SW (between Orpheus and Eurydice), via the chimney to the balcony and a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Eurydika
From the SW, traverse along the sloping platform to the right onto the southern edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Eurydika
Up the center of the NE pyrite wall to the small chimney and through it below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Eurydika
From the SW, via the chimney to its widening (aid climbing) to the 1st ring. Traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Orfeus
From the east, via the corner below the overhang, traverse right, via a crack and a ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Orfeus
From the NW, via the chimney to the left to a crack and along it to a flake. To the left,… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Orfeus
From the chimney of the Náhorní (Plateau) route, to the right via a crack to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Orfeus
To the right of the Eastern route, via a crack into a hollow, right and via a corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Orfeus
From the NW, traverse to the crawl-through and through it into the SE wall. To the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Hermes
Up the center of the NW wall, higher up via a crack to a ledge, where it crosses the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hermes
In the right part of the NW wall, via the chimney to the ledge, and traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Hermes
From the summit of Orpheus, traverse to the balcony and up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ónan
On the left in the plateau via the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Xantipa
Rock Climbing

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