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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Ónan
Up the wall from Hermes (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kalypso
From the rock gate via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Xantipa
From the plateau side via a crack to the ledge and the right edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kalypso
In the left part of the plateau wall via a crack to the balcony and a sloping slab to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kalypso
In the left part of the upland face via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kalypso
Rock Climbing
5
Bendžo
Via the crack in the middle of the south face into the window. Diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kalypso
Via the chimney from the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Kalypso
Rock Climbing
5
Bendžo
Via the right north crack into the window and along the small 'sokolík' (small pinnacle… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bendžo
Via the East crack (from Kalypso) into the window (hourglass) and via the Session route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bendžo
In the left part of the N face via the chimney into the window and via the small 'sokolík… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Bendžo
NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pygmalion
Right of the Upland Route via opposition (1st ring), 'sokolík' (small pinnacle/rib) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pygmalion
From the 2nd ring, right up the wall (3rd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Pygmalion
From the upland side (aiding/stacking) up the wall diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Pygmalion
Left of the upland (east) corner of the tower via aiding/stacking, wall and small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pygmalion
From the SW via the crack and chimney to its inclined part. Up the wall right and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
Left of the south corner via the wall and directly up the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
The ascent starts below the south corner. Up the wall over the overhang to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pygmalion
In the middle of the NE face from the block via the wall (1st ring) into the crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pygmalion
In the right part of the NE face via the crack (ring) to the balcony and via the gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Brtník
SW edge via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Brtník
Via the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Polednice
From PePa, via the edge and a step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Via the chimney of the Wider Dimension route, crack into the hollow and then via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jezerní Béďa
From Kodiak, step across to the pillar, step left and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Jezerní Béďa
Start on the South. From the fore-rock, traverse left into the chimney, up it to the fore… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Via the chimney of the Middle Route to the ledge, then left, along the 'sokolík' (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
To the right in the NE wall, up the crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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