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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Medvědí stěna
Left of the Golf Club route, via a short chimney to the ledge and then right along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
In the middle of the NE face via the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Medvědí stěna
From the ring of the Zaplétačka route, left along the crack (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
Between the routes "Right" and "Entanglement", up the crack to the end (ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Medvědí stěna
In the right part of the NE wall, up the chimney to the end, right in the ledge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Medvědí stěna
From the 2nd ring, step right into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
In the right part of the valley (north) wall, up the corner and crack over the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
Via the crack in the left valley edge to a small balcony and right (1st R) up the pyrite… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kalich
From the uphill side, by stemming to the gully, up it to the balcony and right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Kalich
Stemming against the pillar of the Bear Wall (at the east edge of the tower) and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
From the uphill side, up the wall to the right and along the crack to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Ludvík Vaculík
From the uphill side, up the chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ludvík Vaculík
To the right of the Náhorní route, up the crack and chimney to the pillar. Step across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Špidlinka (Kentaur)
Via the crack of the "Heart Eight" route, higher up via the crack to the ring of the "Two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ludvík Vaculík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ludvík Vaculík
Rock Climbing
5
Bubáček
From N, up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bubáček
To the left of C. Up the corner chimney to the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bubáček
Up the uphill chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bubáček
From NW, a system of cracks (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bubáček
From S, up the chimney and wall to the left, higher up to the right of the edge (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Snoqualme
On the valley (NW) side, up the chimney to the intermediate tower. Along the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Snoqualme
Rock Climbing
3
Snoqualme
From the start of the 'Happy Memories' route directly to the ledge. Via the 'Happy… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lososí trůn
From the uphill side (between Salmon Throne and Snoqualmie) by stemming to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Loskuták
To the left of the Náhorní route, up the wall and a crack to the balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Želva
From the gorge on the uphill side, by aid climbing and left along the wall to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Želva
From the uphill side, left along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
To the left of the Náhorní wall via two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Loskuták
In the left part of the NW wall via a system of cracks (ring) to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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