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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-
Květák
4m to the right of the "Valley Variant of Vosáhlovka", via a crack and fissure (2 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lájoš
In the right part of the valley wall, via a crack to the balcony. Traverse left along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Lájoš
From the upper side, via the chimney and the wall left to the balcony. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kladrubská
Via the Náhorní (NE) chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čučka
To the left of the start of the Dostihy na Kladrubskou route, via the overhanging corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kladrubská
On the SW side, to the right of the prominent corner, via a crack and left via a chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Čučka
To the right of the Náhorní crack route, up the wall and shallow chimney right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čučka
In the middle of the SW wall, via a crack to the ring. Traverse the wall right and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čučka
To the left below the start of the Náhorní crack route, traverse left on the ledge into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Čučka
Up the NW wall over 6 rings to the fore-summit and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Čučka
Via the crack of the Dostihy na Kladrubskou route and right along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Čučka
In the left part of the SE wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sedlová
From the SW (right of the start of the Old Route on Pegasus), via the corner crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Sedlová
With an East crack to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sedlová
To the right of the start of the Old Route, via the chimney (between Sedlová and Pegasus)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Pegas
From the NW, via the chimney into the window and by stemming left to the 1st ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Drobeček
Via the Old Route on Pegasus into the inner space and via the chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pegas
From the gully between Titan and Sedlová, via the chimney to the pillar of Sedlová.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pegas
In the middle of the SW wall, through a fissure and chimney to the 1st ring. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pegas
In the SW wall, via the middle crack (2 rings) to the pillar. Descend the crack into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pegas
Via the White Mouse Route below the overhang (approx. 12m above the ring), step left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Pegas
In the left part of the SW wall, via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pegas
Via the Two-Day Route to the 1st ring and a really long crack to the pre-summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Pegas
In the SW wall, follow a prominent right crack (ring) to its end at the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pegas
From the SE from the fore-rock wall and right crack into the inner space. Corner crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pegas
From the south corner of the tower, traverse diagonally left through a notch and a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pegas
To the left of the start of the Old Route wall and left crack, higher through the fissure… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Titan
Dusty path without building to the ledge, from there slightly left wall (3 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Titan
Route "Boží vánek" to the ledge, traverse left behind the edge and wall over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Titan
From the upper side (from SE) wall to the ledge, right by building, small chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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