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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Titan
From the NW (from the gorge) chimney and crack into the window. Chimney to the pillar,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Škorpion
From the NE through a system of shallow cracks to the ring. Wall into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Škorpion
Overhang into the pyrite valley wall (1st ring), further wall to the 2nd ring, through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Škorpion
Through the upper chimney into the widening, building right into the crack and through it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Titan
From the NE from the upper side (by building) wall to the ledge, traverse right along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Fundament
In the middle of the NW wall through a crack to its end, traverse the wall right into a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Fundament
From the gorge from Titan, a corner crack and higher a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Krunýř
Left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Krunýř
Middle of the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Turek
From the SE chimney to the small balcony and crack to the ring. Wall from the left,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Krunýř
From the NW through the overgrown gully to the gap between towers and right along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krunýř
Middle of the valley wall obliquely to the right to the edge and along it (secured by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Šavlička
From Šavle descend to the ledge above the ring, from there jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Turek
From Šavle by jumping to the plateau and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Turek
From the SE chimney to the ledge, traverse left along it and wall along the inclined… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Šavlička
By the wavy path to Šavle to the ring, from the opposition through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šavle
From the NE chimney to the saddle between Šavle and Kyklop. Up the steps, wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Šavlička
From the SW crack to the plateau. Through the chimney into opposition, by stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Kyklop
At the left valley edge through cracks to the 1st ring, wall right over the overhang (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Pavoučí
On the SW side of the tower (from the fore-summit) up the wall along the notch to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kyklop
From the left edge of the gallery traverse left into the crack and up to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kyklop
From the SE chimney to the saddle, with building and wall to the balcony to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Pavoučí
Via "Friendship" to the ring, from there right and up the gully to the 2nd ring. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Skleněná koule
In the gorge, up the chimney to a overgrown ledge. By extensive building/aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pavoučí
Left in the SW wall from the inner space via a crack (1st ring) and a fissure to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Krab
From the south from the saddle and left via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Homer Simpson
From the start of the old route, up the chimney to the ledge and up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
From S, traverse through the chimney into the gap between towers and right up the corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
Up the corner crack to the balcony to the ring of the "IQ Pumpkin" route and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Homer Simpson
Through the passage between Raka and Homer Simpson to the valley side. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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