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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Ješterka
From the plateau (SE) side, by traversing over the pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ješterka
In the left part of the NE wall, through a narrow chimney to the ring. Through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Chameleon
Valley (SW) crack over overhangs to the 1st ring. Left up the wall along the gully to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Ještěrovo křídlo
Along the short plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ješterka
From the valley side through the crack (ring) to the 'clock' (hourglass/knot-hole belay)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Ještěrovo křídlo
The ascent starts on the valley side. By bridging in the corner and stepping right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vážka
To the left of the Old Route, a system of chimneys leads to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vážka
SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2
Vážka
To the right of the Old Route, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vážka
From NW through the crack (1st ring) and up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vážka
Up the plateau wall, along the ledge to the left and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vilemína
From S from the valley side, through the chimney to the needle, overhanging (ring) and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Šídlo
Valley (SW) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
5
Vilemína
Through the conical chimney to the pre-summit (ring). Briefly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Samaritán
In the right part of the plateau wall, by small crack to the balcony and along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Samuraj
From NW by step-across and right by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vilemína
Through a narrow chimney to the fore-summit to the ring of the route "Přes jehlu" and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pugét
By chimney to the detached block and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pugét
By route "Až mě andělé" and higher traverse left into the crack (ring). Up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pugét
By chimney from the back part of the tower. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Prha chlumní
By plateau (eastern) edge to the fore-summit and by Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Odrodilec
By corner of the Planned Parenthood route further over the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Prha chlumní
By plateau chimney between the tower and pillar to the fore-summit. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Odrodilec
From the Trojče tower, descend and step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Miratias
Right in the SW wall by chimney to the pillar, by step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Masařka
In the left part of the valley wall by crack and corner to the platform and NC to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Odrodilec
From SE by corner and left by wall to the 1st ring, by edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Masařka
Shortly by crack from the plateau side and by slanting slab to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korunovanej vůl
By wall from the plateau side obliquely left into the chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Korunovanej vůl
From E by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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