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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Rak
Via the Cossack's Route to the crack overhang and left up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rak
From the start of the Inner Route, through a passage in the chimney to the right into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Homer Simpson
From NW via a crack-gully (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rak
SE crack into the cave. Up the chimney, which narrows into a crack, to the fore-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
6
Žalud
From the boulder on the plateau side via a broken crack in the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
7-/7
Žalud
NW crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall left to the 2nd and 3rd rings. Right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Rak
The ascent starts in the corner in the right part of the plateau (SE) wall. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Žalud
From SE from the fore-summit traverse right along the ledge, up the chimney and wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Protopapatakis
In the right part of the NW wall of Raka (in the walk-through chimney) via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Protopapatakis
Right on the plateau side up the wall to a ledge, right (1st ring) into the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Protopapatakis
NE sharp edge (2 rings) left and by the old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Pakomár
Briefly up the chimney and right to the small pinnacle. Up it to the ring and a slanting… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Klepeto
From NE via a crack over a ring to the balcony to the 2nd ring. Long traverse into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pakomár
From SE via a crack to the ledge and a crack (tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kvíčala
NE wall to the right into the crack and up it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Kvíčala
From the valley side, through the crack to the saddle, through the chimney to the pillar… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Klepeto
Left of the west corner of the tower via a crack to the end and right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hysterka
Through a narrow chimney to the summit. (Possibly climbed before, not recorded in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Opomenutá
In the NE wall, through the corner crack to the balcony. Left up the wall to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Kvíčala
Through the plateau chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Michael Jackson
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, along the right plateau edge into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Opomenutá
Along the 'Sokolík' route to the platform, through the crack and a system of chimneys to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Opomenutá
From the north, through the wide corner to the ledge of the Old Route. Along it to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Opomenutá
In the left part of the SW wall, through the chimney below its constriction and by… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Opomenutá
In the right part of the SW wall, through the chimney to the platform, traversing left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4-
Ješterka
From the plateau side, descend through the chimney below the plateau wall and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Ješterka
To the right of the "Past na myši" route, through the corner crack to the wedged boulders… Rock Climbing Spare Route
?
Opomenutá
Rock Climbing
5+
Ješterka
In the right part of the NE wall, through a crack over the hole into the chimney of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Ješterka
To the left of the 'Post na myši' route, through a crack into the fissure. Right, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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