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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Uran
From the 2nd ring directly by cracks, higher up by a wide crack to the plateau of the Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Uran
By the left NE crack (1st ring) to the 2nd ring. Left by crack to the balcony, in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Filípek
From the west by falcon crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
2
Filípek
By a slabby corner in the west face. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
8/8+
Uran
By the left plateau (northern) edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Uran
Left on the NE side of the tower by the right wavy crack into the widening, climb through… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Uran
By the right NE crack and chimney below the overhang. By crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Uran
Right on the NE side of the tower by building and wall left to the 1st ring. By building… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Uran
By beginner's route to Venus into the small saddle and crossing right to the plateau. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Pluto
From the plateau side, traverse left in the ledge behind the northern edge. By opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Saturn
From the gully between Mars and Saturn in the Mars wall by crack to the 1st ring, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Saturn
In the right part of the NE face of the tower, by opposition (between Saturn and Mars) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Pluto
Valley (SE) crack to the ring and right wall to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Pluto
The start is in the inter-tower gap between Pluto and Mars. Up the wall to the left over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Jupiter
Up the right uphill crack over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Jupiter
Up the wall of the uphill pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
Through the valley chimney to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Jupiter
From the SW, up the steps to the right to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
From the SW, up the right corner over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek'… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Jupiter
Up the left SW crack over the pillar to the pre-summit. Then via the 'Koutek' route to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Jupiter
To the left of the 'Koutek' (Corner) route, up the crack to the ledge with a ring. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Jupiter
Up the left falcon crack on the east face to the ledge with the ring of route "Tornádo Lů… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Gamin
Start at the south corner of the tower. Directly up the wall to the 2nd Veitinger ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jupiter
Up the center of the uphill wall to the 1st ring, then up the falcon crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Jupiter
From the uphill side, through the chimney in the corner to the pre-summit. Up the small… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7/7+
Gamin
4m to the left of the start of the “Direttissima” route, by a corner and a recess to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Gamin
From the highest point of the terrain, traverse the face diagonally left to the west edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Gamin
The start is below the valley (south) corner. Up the face diagonally right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Gamin
From the foot of the east edge along the cracks directly to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Věstonická Venuše
From the massif, descend and cross over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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