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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Rusákovo nebe
Via the west ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rusákovo nebe
From the west ridge, via a broken face to the north ridge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Fánek
From the south via a corner and crack to the pillar, then via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Fánek
From the saddle, via the overgrown face to the right, up to below the summit head, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž dvou kamarádů
From the SE via a shallow crack to the 1st ring. Via a small chimney/arete and a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Věž dvou kamarádů
Near the N edge of the tower via a small chimney/arete to a shelf and via the face (two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Magistr
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Magistr
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Magistr
Via the valley chimney, higher up through cracks to the balcony to the 1st ring (aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trubadúrek
Via the upper crack and face to the ring. By building/aid and right via the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Trubadúrek
From the ring of the 'It was nothing' route, left to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Trubadúrek
From the ring of the 'It was nothing' route, right along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Günter
From the inter-towers (from Herny) via the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Günter
From the inter-towers via a crack near the eastern corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Günter
in the valley wall Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Herna
Up the dirty crack-chimney in the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Herna
Right of the eastern corner of the pillar via a system of cracks and a crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vizionář
From the block on the eastern side of the tower via a step-across and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Herna
In the left part of the upper (SW) wall via a chimney and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vizionář
Via the Náhorní (Upper/Highland) wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kárové eso
In the valley wall via a crack, higher up along the left valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kárové eso
From the SW via a layback on a block, up the wall left and via a crack to the ring. With… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Falešný hráč
To the right on the SW side of the tower with significant aid climbing, up a crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Falešný hráč
From the SW via a layback between Falešný hráčem (False Player) and Károvým esem (Diamond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Falešný hráč
Right of the route Zelená louka (Green Meadow) via a layback to the added ring, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Falešný hráč
Via the Southern Edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Domov důchodců
SW chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Falešný hráč
Left of the eastern edge via a crack to the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Domov důchodců
Left of the Old Route via the crack chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Domov důchodců
From the valley (NW) side via a layback on a block to the ledge, then traverse left on it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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