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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Věstonická Venuše
By a chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sirius
Rock Climbing
6-
Sirius
To the left in the east face by a prominent crack to a ledge. To the right by the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Sirius
To the right on the plateau side by a short chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Sirius
From E by a narrow crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sirius
Rock Climbing
4
Merkur
From SW by the second crack from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Merkur
By the right SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Merkur
By the left SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Merkur
In the chimney of the path 'Komínem', through the chimney and a window traverse to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Merkur
In the middle of the SW face by a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Merkur
Up the valley face via two rings and a pine tree to the fore-summit. Arbitrarily to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nebojsa
To the left of the north corner, by cracks and a chimney to a small platform. By the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bojs
In the left part of the NE face, by a crack to a hole, by a crack to a ledge and in it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Nebojsa
From SW by a chimney to a pillar and to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mučednický kůl
From S, via a small ridge to the final edge of "Zelené mučení" (Green Torture). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mučednický kůl
The approach is from a ledge on the NE side of the tower. Via the East edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bojs
From the SW flank, via a crack and chimney to the valley side and to the balcony. By wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Tamango
From the right edge of the SE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Tamango
From the start of the Corrida route, diagonally left along the wall, via a flake (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Mučednický kůl
Via a chimney and wall along the North edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Tamango
Via the Corrida route, to the 1st ring. By wall to the right and along the edge (3 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Tamango
To the left of the Giant Chimney route, via a prominent corner into the gap between… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tamango
To the left of the route "Návrat vojenských zběhů" (Return of the Military Deserters),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Tamango
Approach via the Giant Chimney route, through a passage to the opposite side of the tower… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tamango
From the prominent SW corner, via a chimney to the saddle, then by opposition/stemming… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tamango
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Manitou
From Tomahawk to Manitou. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Žlebská kvočna
Via the upper crack to a shelf and via the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Žlebská kvočna
From the northeast, traverse left in the ledge to the 1st ring. Left via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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