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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Palice
Left upland (NW) crack to the pillar, left by crack to the ledge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Palice
SW chimney into the cave and wall left to the ring. Below the ring, traverse by wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Páteční
From E (from the tourist path) by standing and broken crack to the small balcony, by… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Herečka
From NW by crack (ring) and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Prdítko
Valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Hranolek
Valley (SW) wall to the ring, wall left to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
4
Hranolek
Upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Čapka
SE crack to the balcony (ring) and by standing to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Džbán
In the right part of the NW wall, through the corner chimney to the pillar. Aid climbing …
6
Džbán
From the SE, by crack through the widening to the ring (aid climbing from sit harness)…
5+
Džbán
In the left part of the NW wall, by double crack (ring) and chimney to the 2nd ring. By…
6
Cahounek
Through the chimney from the NE (opposite the cave in Eagle's Nest), left by broken crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Cahounek
Up the Southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Cahounek
Right of route "Hedgehog's Torment", by crack over the overhang (ring) to overgrown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Cahounek
In the middle of the plateau wall, traverse left and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From S, by crack to the small cave and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6-
Orlí hnízdo
By the Old Route under the enclosed inner space. Exit left into the SW wall, stemming… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Orlí hnízdo
From the chimney from the south, by overhanging crack over the ring into the chimney and… Rock Climbing Overhang
8+/9-
Orlí hnízdo
Up the East (??) edge, 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Orlí hnízdo
From the NE, by the left chimney to the pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Orlí hnízdo
In the left part of the NE wall, by small crack and small pillars/niches to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Orlí hnízdo
From the left NE chimney, traverse right on the ledge (or directly by crack) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Orlí hnízdo
From the NE, by the right chimney and crack to the platform. By the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From the valley side, by chimney and left by crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Orlí hnízdo
From the 2nd ring, by crack and wall to the platform. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Orlí hnízdo
From the passage from the NE, up the wall right to the 1st ring. Traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Orlí hnízdo
From the inner space, up the wall to the ring, stemming/bridging into the corner and by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
7/7+
Orlí hnízdo
Right of the "Valley Route", up the wall to the 1st and 2nd rings. Right along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Bonbónek
In the left part of the NE wall, by crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bonbónek
From the west (aid climbing) and left by a system of cracks to the ring. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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