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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Pazourek
From the valley side, left along the gully and chimney to the saddle. Descend along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Pazourek
From the balcony (left below the ring of the Old Way to Vinnetou) by jumping to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Vinnetou
In the right part of the NW wall along the crack, higher up left along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Pazourek
From the plateau saddle up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vinnetou
SW wall to the ring. Aid climbing from a sling and along the crack to the balcony. Old… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Vinnetou
Along the Santer Route to the 1st ring. Right along the crack (added ring) and higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Vinnetou
From the south along the gully, crack and wall to the left to the 1st ring. Aid climbing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Vinnetou
From the plateau side along the crack and chimney into the gully between the towers. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Vinnetou
Via a variant of the Old Way into the wide chimney/stemming, through it and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Vinnetou
Along the Old Way for about seven meters and right up the wall behind the edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Vinnetou
Along the Old Way into the gully between the towers and with a wide chimney/stemming move… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Rybana
In the left part of the NW fore-rock up the wide crack to the ledge. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5
Vinnetou
From the north via the corner crack into the gully between the towers and via the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Vinnetou
From the 1st ring of the route 'Stick your fingers up your ass' by aid climbing and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Rybana
In the right part of the valley wall along the crack to the ring and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Rybana
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, right of the 'Artur's Edge' route, via an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Rybana
From the fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, in the middle of the wall, up the broken… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Rybana
In the valley wall between the Rybina route and Zapocený žlábek (Sweaty Gully) via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Rybana
Via the chimney of the Variant of the Old Way to Vinnetou into the wide chimney/stemming,… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Rybana
From the NE terrace via the slanted chimney and right via the small gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Rybana
Via a variant of the Old Way to Vinnetou into the gully between the towers, via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Babiččina lenoška
From the block on the SE side, up the wall to the 1st ring. Aid climbing from a sling and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Homole
Up the wall to the left along the east edge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Babiččina lenoška
From the NE via the crack to the block (aid climbing) and up the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4+
Babiččina lenoška
From the west via the chimney to the block. Via a system of cracks (ring) and the small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Dědečkova předkožka
From the east edge up the wall to the right (ring) and along the rounded edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Houbová
From the SW via a wide chimney/stemming against the block, mantle/overhang into the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4
Houbová
From Grandmother's Armchair via the small chimney/groove and the overgrown wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Dědečkova předkožka
Up the right part of the plateau (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Návěs
Through the middle of the SE wall via the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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