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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Návěs
SE wall to the south edge and along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
1.5m right of the "Left Valley Chimney" via the crack, higher up as "Left Valley Chimney"… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
In the left part of the valley wall via the slanted chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the right plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the NE wall diagonally left along the ledges to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Luňákovo hnízdo
Start as "Return of the Birds of Prey" and directly up the crack to the ring. Briefly to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Luňákovo hnízdo
Via the valley chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Luňákovo hnízdo
Up the left upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Yamaha
In the middle of the NE face, up the chimney through the constriction to the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Yamaha
Up the NE chimney and crack (ring) to the pillar. Via the Walkman route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Yamaha
Up the right part of the NE face and crack to the ring. To the right along the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Yamaha
In the left part of the NE face, up the crack to the end at the ring. From the right, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Yamaha
Up the vertical twin crack in the short east face via the hourglass to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Robin Hood
To the left of the shed, up the face to the ring. Up the face and crack into the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Robin Hood
From the E, up the chimney and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Robin Hood
On the NE side, with artificial aid from the roof to the ring, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Robin Hood
To the right of the N edge, up the diagonal crack to the 1st ring and along the edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Robin Hood
From the path, up the gully and through Sherwood Forest to the balcony. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Václav
Up the overgrown SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Václav
From the NW, up the crack left to the small balcony. Up the face diagonally right (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Václav
From the valley from Mezáč, between the pillars to the crack in the middle of the east… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Václav
At the western corner (to the right of Správcova) through the corner under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Fefík
Up the chimney from the north to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Fefík
From the SW, up the face (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Fefík
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Fefík
From the south, up the short upland face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Kvakin
Up the crack from the west to the ledge and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Kvakin
From the north edge, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Kvakin
Up the small face from the south. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Krajní
To the right of the start of the Old Route via the chimney to the ring and to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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