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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lesáček
To the right of the start, via the chimney to the saddle. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Lesáček
The start is below the center of the SE wall. Solid climbing to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Lesáček
From the slope below the left part of the NE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring. Through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Lesáček
From the upper side, via a crack to the saddle and then a system of cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Divá Bára
Via a wide crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Pohodářka
The upper part is an unusually beautifully featured little wall, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Divá Bára
From the pillar on the upper (SE) side, by stepping over and up the wall (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Divá Bára
From the west edge, left via a corner and cracks 1st and 2nd ring. Up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Divá Bára
From NE to the saddle. Via a wide crack to the small pillar. Overhang and wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Křen
From the middle of the traverse of the Koutová (Corner) route, via a crack in the NW wall… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Křen
From the upper side, traverse along the ledge to the left to the valley side, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Křen
From the valley side, directly through a crack into the corner crack. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Culík
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the circle and along the western edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Culík
From the chimney of the Hranou route, traverse the wall to the right and through a crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Culík
To the left of the route, along the edge through a crack and fissure to the end. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Culík
Directly below the rappel, up the chimney to the 2nd circle, through a crack (birch) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Tři sestry
From the gap between towers, through the left crack over 2 circles to the pillar (3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Tři sestry
Through a double crack in the corner over a circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Tři sestry
To the right of the route "Owl in Mazut", up the wall along the left edge over 3 circles… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Lidový vypravěč
To the right on the SW side of the tower, up the chimney to the pillar. By building … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rodinná hrobka
Through Sokolík (from the start of the Old Route variant - Over the Fichtle to Milenec)… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Milenci
Opposite the start of the Old Route, up the chimney, higher up through a crack (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Milenci
From the gorge between Culík and Caparty, up the chimney to the crack of Pilířová route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
Through the chimney "C. of Sunshine" to the pillar and further along the edge of Milenec… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Milenci
From the SE, to the right of Pilířová route, through a crack (2 circles) to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Milenci
From the upper window, traverse the wall to the left, through a crack (circle) over an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Milenci
In the left part of the SE wall of Milenec, up the chimney to the saddle and through a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7/7+
Milenci
From Milenecká at the level of the 'letecká' shelf, up the wall and over the overhang via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Milenci
Via the chimney of the Milenecká cesta (Lovers' Way) to where it's passable to the SE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
From the 2nd circle of the "Letecká" wall, traverse 2 circles to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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