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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Milenci
At the beginning of Milenecká Corridor, a crack and overhang (2 circles) into a difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8/8+
Milenci
From the 2nd circle of the "Letecká" wall, traverse 2 circles to the ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Milenci
Via the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route into the cave (bivouac). Via opposition (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Milenci
Left of the "Linka důvěry" (Line of Trust) route via a crack to the balcony. Traverse the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Milenci
In the right part of the SE wall via a system of cracks into the cave, then a chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
The start is in the corner on the east side of the tower. Via a system of cracks (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6+/7-
Milenci
From the NW from the stream via a chimney to the ring. Via a crack to the terrace and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
To the right of the Pilíř (Pillar) tower in the corner via a chimney to the pillar (also… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the "Přes věžičky" (Over the Turrets) route to the pillar. To the right via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
Přeskok
Milenci
From the summit of Pilíř (Pillar) tower, jump to the ledge and follow it left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Milenci
From the NW, from the fore-rock, via a chimney to the ring. Traverse the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Milenci
Up the entrance chimney of St. c. all the way to the end. Left along the ledge above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Milenci
Via the chimney of the "Přes fichtli" variant around its ring, further up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Milenci
Start near the Old Way directly up the chimney to the plateau, left (1st ring) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Pilíř
Via the Od branky (From the Gate) route to Milenci (Lovers) onto the terrace, then over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Milenci
From the Lovers' Corridor via a chimney in the Milenka massif into the inner space. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8-/8
Pilíř
Via the crack of the Něžnost (Tenderness) route for seven meters, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Pilíř
From the NE via a crack into the small cave, then a notch to the 1st ring (aid climbing),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Uhlířská
On the east edge via a system of cracks (4 rings) under the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hranolek
From the uphill side via chimney and step-over onto the ledge. Traverse the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Samotář
From the valley up the wall to a shelf (1st ring), via a crack (2 rings) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Samotář
From the terrace from the NW, up the wall to the left to the edge (1st ring), up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Samotář
SE wall to the balcony and via climbing moves to the left to the ring. Via climbing moves… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Gondola
Via the "Benátská" (Venetian) route without technical moves to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6-
Hrad
In the right part of the SW wall, via a crack, higher up through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hrad
Via the Polička route to the 1st ring, traverse right along the ledge (2nd ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hrad
From the balcony between the 1st and 2nd rings, traverse the wall to the right and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hrad
In the left part of the NE wall, through a fissure (ring) into the chimney and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Hrad
To the right of the Jubilee route, via a crack (1st ring) and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Hrad
In the right part of the NE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring (aided from a sling) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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