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Climbing at Adršpach Rocks

6255 routes
16 areas
1–11 grades

The Adršpach Rocks in the Hradec Králové Region are one of Europe's most famous sandstone rock towns – more than 1,800 free-standing towers within walking distance, from a few metres up to about 90 m high. Together with the neighbouring Teplice Rocks they form the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks National Nature Reserve (protected since 1933, 17.12 km²), part of the Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area since 1991. The climbing tradition here goes back more than a century.

The climbing is mostly cracks, with walls and chimneys too. Protection is sparse – rings far apart with only textile slings, knots and textile "UFOs" in between; cams, nuts and chalk are banned, and climbing is allowed only on dry rock and in daylight. Climbing permission is granted by the Nature Conservation Agency, and entry is free with a valid Czech Mountaineering Association card. Some sectors (e.g. Vstupní obvod, Město, Ostrov) are open from 1 May to 31 December, others (Za pískovnou, Panoptikum, Himálaj) only from 1 July; local closures for nesting birds also apply.

Part of East Bohemia, Adršpach Rocks has 6255 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Hrad
Jubilee route to the 1st ring and via the falconet notch left to the 2nd ring. To the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hrad
To the right of "Jubilee", up the wall 2Q and left into "Jubilee". Along it to the crawl… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hrad
From SW, via a system of cracks (3 rings) and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Hrad
In the corner to the left of the start of the "Polic" route, up the wall to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hrad
Via the Polic route to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall to the left to the crack and up it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Hrad
From the suspended boulder above the viewpoint with Saxon-style construction (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Citadela
To the left of the route "Masonic Lodge", through a narrow chimney to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Citadela
In the middle of the valley wall, through the chimney under the overhang and via a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Citadela
In the middle of the valley wall, through a crack, corner (1st ring) and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Citadela
In the left part of the valley (NE) wall, via a crack in the gap between towers to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
2
Citadela
From SE, from the massif, a step-over and briefly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zloduch
From the hiking trail, via a crack and chimney to the 1st and 2nd bolts. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Vřesová
In the middle of the SE wall, via a notch and the wall to the 1st bolt. To the right, a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Vřesová
From the 1st Quickdraw of 'Rehabilitation Tricks' diagonally left into the Old Route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Vřesová
From the valley side, via cracks below the crest of the NE pillar, then the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Vřesová
In the right part of the SE wall, via a crack to the pillar and then the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Vřesová
From the 'Závojová cesta' (Veil Route) up the wall along small cracks to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Vřesová
In the left part of the SE wall, a broken crack to the ledge and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Mláďata
On the NW side from the large crevice, left onto the ledge, through the green corner and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Gigolo
From the ring left via a corner crack, left via a chimney and along the arête to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Gigolo
To the right of the valley edge, climb the corner crack to the small balcony and then the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8/8+
Gigolo
By crack to the ring, upwards into a small fissure (2nd ring), via a fissure into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Gigolo
From the north by wall, higher up by crack to the ring, (using a stirrup) traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Tadyk
From the ledge on the uphill side of the tower (from Lvice) traverse left along the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Hadí
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack over an overhang and an S-shaped crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Hadí
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack (ring) to the saddle and by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Hadí
Right of the Rejnočí route via a crack to the saddle and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
8/8+
Hadí
Via the Dubček crack for 5m and right to the arête via Bh and 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Hadí
From NW via a corner crack onto a small platform, then by crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Hadí
From SW (in the recess between the pillars) via a chimney and corner crack onto the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2

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