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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kniha
To the right of "Variant of the Old Route" through the corner and wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kniha
Through the South crack, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kniha
Like the "Southeast Route" onto the fore-peak, traverse left into the center of the South… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kniha
To the right in the South face onto the fore-peak and to the left by the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
2+
Kniha
From the right or left onto the fore-peak at the SE edge. Through the gully to the sub… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Kniha
Through the NE face to the ring to the right onto the edge, and along it directly over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kniha
Completely to the left in the S wall via the diagonal crack to the fore-rock and via… Rock Climbing
3
Kniha
To the right in the N wall via the chimney to the fore-rock and via route a) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kniha
Through the corner in the North face, up the chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kniha
From the W to the fore-rock and via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Opuštěná stěna
In the right part of the valley wall, via the crack over the 1st and 2nd BH and right up… Rock Climbing
2+
Opuštěná stěna
From the E via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Opuštěná stěna
Along the left valley edge over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Opuštěná stěna
In the plateau wall via the left crack to the pillar, step across and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Opuštěná stěna
In the plateau wall via the right crack to the fore-summit and traverse to the main… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Opuštěná stěna
From the W into the corner and via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Medvědí zátiší
Via the "Old Route" to the fore-summit, with double aid and over BH via the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
3
Medvěd
To the right in the valley (SE) wall via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Medvěd
To the left in the upper (NW) wall via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Kulisák
Less than 2m to the right of the upper edge, directly through the center of the upper… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kulisák
To the right of the right valley edge via the wall over 2 BH and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Medvěd
To the left in the valley wall via a wide crack to the fore-summit, higher up via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Medvěd
From the West from the highest point via a chimney to the fore-summit and then up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kulisák
From the upper side via the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kulisák
Start as for the route "Treacherous Shot" and diagonally right to the balcony. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Kulisák
In the upper wall via a corner in the massif to a ledge (hourglass), traverse right to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kulisák
Along the West edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mezník
Along the right upper edge via a stemming chimney, higher up along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mezník
In the upper wall, via a recess to the balcony, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Břit
From the massif, descend right via an overgrown chimney to the ledge, then along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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