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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Vlčice
In the plateau wall to the right of the abseil point via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Oberon
To the right in the valley wall via a prominent corner to the top to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6+/7-
Oberon
In the right part of the wall directly to the 1st ring, from there left to the beginning… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Vlčice
Left in the plateau wall diagonally left to the edge and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Vodní kámen
From the SW wall, left via hourglasses behind the edge and up the wall via 2 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Okenní věž
From the massif, descend via the gully and chimney to the ledge and then step over to the… Rock Climbing
?
Vodní kámen
From the massif, descend and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vodní kámen
Ascend 2m left of the E edge along the wall (carved steps) to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vodní kámen
In the left part of the S wall, ascend a slightly overhanging wall via a ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vodní kámen
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Okenní věž
Up the center of the valley wall over a ring and a bolt into the gully (hour-glasses) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Okenní věž
In the left part of the valley wall directly into the little pillar, diagonally left… Rock Climbing
5+
Okenní věž
To the left in the NW wall, via the crack over a ring to the saddle and then via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Okenní věž
From the valley ridge over the overhang into the crack, along it to the end (hour-glasses… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Osada
From the North via the small corner over a bolt into the cave, slightly from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Okenní věž
To the right of the rock window, up the chimney with an overhanging start to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Okenní věž
From the West side, climb through the chimney and the upper part of the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Okenní věž
From the West via the chimney into the rock window (stance), through it climb into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
10-/10
Osada
To the left of "Hopion" directly up the wall over 4 rings and diagonally right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Osada
Up the corner crack over a ring below the overhang, over it to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Osada
Via the route "Hologram" to the ledge (sling) and traverse left below the dominant corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Osada
To the right in the valley wall, directly through a crack and fissure and then right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šajba
Up the narrow W wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Šajba
Through the corner in the E wall around the pine tree, higher up via chimney and edge to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
2+
Šajba
From the highest point in the plateau/uphill area by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Jízdárna
To the left of the central wall of "Jízdárna" via a prominent groove in the corner over K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Pohrobek
Through the right part of the central chimney to the main summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pohrobek
From the uphill side over the fore-summits (by overcoming the overhang) to the main… Rock Climbing
4-
Pohrobek
By chimney between the fore-summits, further on as "Hřebenovka" to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pohrobek
From W partly by crack in the massif and by chimney between the main summit and the… Rock Climbing

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