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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

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Břit
From the massif, descend right via an overgrown chimney to the ledge, then along it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Břit
Along the valley edge over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pašerák
By technical ascent to the upper edge and then along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dlouhá stěna
m right of the Left South Chimney, via a two-part chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dlouhá stěna
Right of the 'Surprise' route, via a hand crack to the end and then left via a wide crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
2+
Dlouhá stěna
In the middle of the S face, take the left chimney to the balcony, then up the wall via… Rock Climbing
2+
Dlouhá stěna
From the start, take the right crack to the pre-summit and then the wall to the ridge.… Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhá stěna
In the middle of the S face, via the falcon crack, higher up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Dlouhá stěna
Completely to the left in the S face, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dlouhá stěna
Left of the South Route, via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Dlouhá stěna
Right in the N wall, by corner higher up the pillar to the balcony. Left by crack to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Dlouhá stěna
Left in the N wall, by corner chimney between the block and the pillar, higher up… Rock Climbing
2+
Dlouhá stěna
From the upper (E) side, pass through the chimney in the W direction and briefly right… Rock Climbing
4+
Děravec
Middle of the S wall over the overhang and hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Děravec
By edge over the overhang to the ledge and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Děravec
In the right part of the S wall to the hourglass and from there right over the overhang… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger
3
Děravec
From the edge over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svobodný kámen
From the S edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5
Svobodný kámen
To the left in the valley wall over a bolt and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Svobodný kámen
Along the left upper edge to the fore-rock and by the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
7+/8-
Zakázaný vrchol
Along the overhanging edge over a bolt to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Hraniční kámen
In the left part of the valley wall by a delicate small wall into a crack (hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hraniční kámen
In the middle of the valley wall under the overhang and diagonally right to the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hraniční kámen
From the valley along the right edge under the first overhang, traverse left (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hraniční kámen
From the right upper edge traverse under the overhanging small wall (left hourglass… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Hraniční kámen
Right part of the plateau wall over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hraniční kámen
Along the overhanging wall along the left upper (SZZ) edge to a step and by the overgrown… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
4+
Vlčice
Overhang from the stone into the plateau wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6-
Vlčice
In the left valley edge from the left over the overhang (1st ring) along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
5+
Vlčice
In the plateau wall to the right of the abseil point via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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