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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Pohrobek
From the uphill side over the fore-summits (by overcoming the overhang) to the main… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kukla
Completely in the left part of the valley wall, up the wall near the edge, around the… Rock Climbing Danger
6
Kukla
Up the diagonal crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Díra
Up the right valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang +1
8+/9-
Svatá Ludmila
Up the overhanging edge to the right of the route "Lidumil" via 3 bolt hangers to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Svatá Ludmila
Right of the route "Karlstein" up the wall via 5 rings and an overhang. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Jelení věž
From the gully to the right onto the edge, and via that over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Svatá Ludmila
Up the left valley edge to the ring, from the right to the 2nd ring, from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Jelení věž
Left of the route "Return of Broken Legs" directly up the wall via a bolt hanger to the… Fixed belay Route in shadow Vertical wall
4-
Jelení věž
Through the middle of the valley face to the crack, then via that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení věž
Up the short upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení věž
Via the "Valley Route", traverse right and via the 'sokol' feature to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Měsíční kámen
Up the wall from the right to the small balcony of the valley edge and via the route … Rock Climbing
6
Měsíční kámen
Up the West face from the left to the small balcony of the valley edge, and via that over… Rock Climbing
5+
Měsíční kámen
From the ring of the "Old Route", traverse 2m left and directly over the 'hourglass'… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Měsíční kámen
In the left part of the South face via 2 bolt hangers to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Měsíční kámen
Along the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bobík
Up the wall along the left upper edge to the summit.
2+
Bobík
From the massif, a direct jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Měsíční kámen
In the North face from the right or left to the ledge and via the 'sokolík' to a ring on… Rock Climbing
5
Bobík
Through the small crack and the valley edge over the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Posed
From the valley crack-chimney, left of the route "Horror for Sara", to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Posed
Through the crack and above the overhang to the right and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
5+
Posed
Through the hand crack in the corner in the left part of the massif, to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
6
Posed
Through the slanted crack in the North face, right of the route "Radical Cut", to the… Rock Climbing Danger
9/9+
Husa
Left in the S wall over 2 rings (K) to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Posed
Up the valley crack to the top (n.t.). Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Posed
In the SE wall via a crack over the overhang to the bolt hanger and diagonally left above… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Husa
In the S wall via the pillar and over the ring directly to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Husa
Right in the S wall into an open corner and directly to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing

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