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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Meniskus
To the right in the N face from the pre-summit rock diagonally right to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Meniskus
To the left of the "STAIRS" route from the boulder to the pre-summit rock and with a push… Rock Climbing
4+
Satan
To the right in the S face, diagonally right to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Meniskus
Through the middle of the upper part of the wall to the pre-summit rock and up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Satan
In the right part of the north wall into the hollow (hourglass on the left) and over the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
4+
Satan
To the left in the S face directly, higher up via the "Old Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Satan
Up the plateau (W) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Satan
In the S wall from the fore-rock diagonally left (ring) past the hourglass to the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Satan
Like the "Northern Route" to the ring and up into the hole. Climb through the hole into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Sokolská věž
From the 2nd ring of "Sokol Meets", left through the hole into the gully and follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Vyhlídková věž
To the left in the S wall, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková věž
In the valley (W) wall via the notch, later left via the shallow groove, then right over… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková věž
To the right in the S wall, up the wall and gully over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Vyhlídková věž
Up the plateau wall (below the rappel point) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková věž
In the valley wall directly to the ring and slightly left to the balcony. "SW route" to… Rock Climbing
2+
Vyhlídková věž
From the balcony over the sloping belly, up the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková věž
From the balcony in the S wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Monika
Up the middle of the S wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Monika
Up the smooth plateau wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Monika
Start to the right of the valley edge, up the wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Monika
In the NE wall via the shallow groove and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Monika
Left in the summit face up the crack and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Monika
In the summit face, briefly along the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Monika
Through the center of the SE face directly via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Bobek
From the right to the E edge and along it via K higher right up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Bobek
To the right in the NW in the sloping fine indentation, difficult up to the ledge (clock)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Bobek
To the left of the "Sniper" route up the face via K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Bobek
Directly up the face to the right of the "Northern Chimney" route (from the bench) to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Bobek
From N up the chimney, higher left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bobek
Left of the "Old Route" from the left to the edge and along it to the ledge (clock). Up… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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