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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Bobek
From W (from the oak) up the face and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Bobek
In the S face, up the chimney, in the widening to the right and further up the sloping… Rock Climbing
6-
Bobek
Through the center of the W face along the holes to the rounded ledge (clock), traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pastevecká věž
Through the center of the SE face to the clock, from there traverse right to the edge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Pastevecká věž
Through the center of the NW face, via the clock, to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pastevecká věž
From the Prase tower with a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pastevecká věž
Along the NE ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pastevecká věž
Via stemming between the towers to the ring on Prase tower. Step over into the wall and… Rock Climbing
5
Pastevecká věž
Directly along the NW edge to the ring and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pastevecká věž
From the gorge briefly via the edge and a traverse left to the NW edge and up it (ring)… Rock Climbing
4-
Diktátor
From the plateau side over the fore-rock to the platform and further into the notch … Rock Climbing
7/7+
Diktátor
Via the West edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Diktátor
Via the West wall over 2 bolts and the edge into the "Road to Freedom" and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Diktátor
Like the "Old Route" to the hourglasses; from them about 2m to the right and directly up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Diktátor
Through the center of the valley (North) wall directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Nevěrnice
From the boulder at the West edge to the right and via the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Nevěrnice
Through the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Nevěrnice
Via the Western edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Nevěrnice
Via the valley wall directly to the edge and over 2 bolts into the "Western Route" and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Nevěrnice
In the right part of the valley wall over an overhang and up the wall to the bolt;… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nevěrnice
From the SE via a rib; higher up via the old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Podsvinče
From the South via an overhanging crack n.t. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
3
Nevěrnice
From the plateau side via the left (NE) edge or higher up to the left behind the edge… Rock Climbing
6-
Kančí zub
Via a narrow, overhanging valley wall to the ring; from the ring, right along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Kančí zub
From the West via a chimney to a ledge in the NW wall; traverse right to the edge and up… Rock Climbing
2+
Kančí zub
From the massif, descend via a gully to a ledge, traverse right into the chimney of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kančí zub
From left to the center of the NW wall and directly via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
9+
Divočák
Through the middle of the valley wall via 2 rings to the summit (from the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kančí zub
From the boulder on the plateau side up the chimney into the chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kančí zub
Via the South face between the edge and the "Klekták" route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Danger +1

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