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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Vlk
From the boulder from the east, a drop into the wall, up a crack and a left-facing notch… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vlk
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Popovičský kámen
In the middle of the NE wall, to the right along a ledge to a balcony, then a rise to a… Rock Climbing
3
Popovičský kámen
From the plateau (E) edge, diagonally right up the wall into a depression and up it to… Rock Climbing
2+
Opomenutá věž
Via the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Opomenutá věž
In the right part of the valley face via a small corner and wall over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Opomenutá věž
To the left of the route "Crawler" via a narrow overhanging wall along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Overhang
4-
Opomenutá věž
To the right of the route "Treasure Within Reach" via the wall into a depression, then… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
4-
Opomenutá věž
Directly up the middle of the valley S face to the top (abseil bolt). Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Opomenutá věž
From the upper N side directly up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Opomenutá věž
In the middle of the upper face along the crack and over ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5+
Staromilec
In the left part of the E face along the edge and via the wall (BH) to the route end. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Staromilec
In the right part of the SE face directly up the wall along the fall line of BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Staromilec
In the right part of the E face via the wall through holes (BH) to the route end. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Jehla v bivaku
In the middle of the valley SE face over a ring and hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Nový svět
Through the crack in the E wall (clock) and over the balcony to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Nový svět
In the left part of the S wall along the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
3
Nový svět
Up the center of the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Nový svět
Up the center of the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Nový svět
In the W wall via a narrow chimney and a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Nový svět
To the left of the route "Svatá větvička" (Holy Twig) up a short wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Širý oceán
To the right of the "Cestománie" route, up the sharp edge and wall to the bolt hanger (BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Věžička
To the left of the route "Výstup" (Ascent) along the edge and wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věžička
In the corner of the valley wall, traverse right under the overhang to an overgrown… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Věžička
From the boulder on the uphill side, right up the wall to the balcony and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Věžička
To the right of the "Výstup" (Ascent) route, over the overhang directly to the balcony… Rock Climbing
4+
Věžička
Up the center of the S wall to the balcony and via the "Výstup" (Ascent) route to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bratranec
In the right part of the S wall, up the wall and diagonally left by the notch to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
?
Skrytá věž
By the left chimney, through the narrowing to the balcony and a jump (1) or overflow… Rock Climbing
3
Skrytá věž
Correct with chimney over a large boulder n. v. Rock Climbing

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