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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Medvídek
From S via an incision to a small ledge, then right past the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
Middle of the S wall to K, obliquely left and up the crack to the ledge. Right over the… Rock Climbing
2+
Medvídek
From SW via chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvídek
NW edge to the last ledge and left up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
Directly from the road via an overhanging recess to a small ledge to K and up the crack… Rock Climbing
3
Medvídek
NE crack around the clock to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Medvídek
Crack at the right edge of the N wall around K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
SW edge via K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvídek
Middle of the S wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
Middle of the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Medvídek
NE edge directly from the road over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvídek
In the left part of the N wall, left up to the NE edge and along it up. Rock Climbing
5
Medvídek
Left of the N edge up to the platform and directly up the edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvídek
About 5m left of the Crack Route, over the overhangs to a small platform, traverse left… Rock Climbing
4-
Medvídek
Wall along the rounded edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Velký bazar
In the left part of the N wall, up the wall past 2 rings. From the 2nd ring, slightly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Východní roh
In the right part of the valley wall, up the friable wall into the notch and through it… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní věž
Through the middle of the wall via an interrupted crack and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Východní věž
Approach via the Eastern Route to the pillar, left to a delicate overhanging crack and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Východní věž
From the notch at the N edge, up the zigzag crack to the step of the N edge. Rock Climbing
2
Dóm
Via the overhang in the right part of the massif. Rock Climbing
2
Dóm
To the right of the Old Way, step over and up the crack. Rock Climbing
3
Dóm
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower up. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Dóm
Up the W wall over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Dóm
On the NW along the edge over 3 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dóm
In the left part of the S wall into the cave and up the wall to the bolt, stemming over a… Rock Climbing
5+
Dóm
On S via bolt through a dispute between the tower and the massif, later by wall to K. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Dóm
Up the center of the south wall under the overhang to the ring. From there, difficult… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Dóm
In the right part of the S wall into the cave over a large overhang into a crack and up… Rock Climbing
6
Dóm
Route - var. via ceiling at the end of the crack, directly up the wall to the ledge to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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