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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Skrytá věž
Correct with chimney over a large boulder n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Skrytá věž
From chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kráter
In the left part of the valley wall over BH and overhang (hourglasses), with a friction… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Vyhlídka
In the left part of the wall, on the ledge traverse to the bolt of the route "Theatre on… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vyhlídka
Along the W wall to the overhang (sling in the crack), over the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Vyhlídka
Through the middle of the W wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Vyhlídka
From S, right to the bolt and along the W wall over a "sea" of hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
Via the notch in the West face (n. v.) Rock Climbing
4-
Svatodušní věž
Up the wall and a zigzagging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Svatodušní věž
Via a wide chimney, higher up via a crack (n. v.) Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
Via the crack in the left part of the East face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Svatodušní věž
In the SE face, over an overhang to a ledge to the hourglass. Up the wall to the K and… Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
Via a slanted gash into a crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Velikonoční věž
Right of the Old Route, up the wall into a hollow and higher via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velikonoční věž
Up the NE edge from the road over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Velikonoční věž
Directly from the road, up an overhanging hollow to a small platform to the K and then… Rock Climbing
6
Velikonoční věž
Up the NE edge directly from the road over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Velikonoční věž
Up the NE crack past the hour(s) to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Velikonoční věž
From the SW, through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velikonoční věž
Up the middle of the South face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Velikonoční věž
Left of the North edge, up to the platform and directly up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velikonoční věž
Up the SW edge over the K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velikonoční věž
About 5m left of the path, Crack route over overhangs to a small platform, traverse left… Rock Climbing
5+
Velikonoční věž
Up the middle of the SW face to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Netopýří věž
Left of the path, Clothes and Shoes over 2 bolt hangers to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Netopýří věž
Up the middle of the South face to the K. Right and back left to the platform. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Netopýří věž
On the East side, via a slanted, friable crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Medvídek
NE edge from the road over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Medvídek
Right of the Old Road via the wall into the recess and higher up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Medvídek
From W via the wall and rib to the ledge and right over the overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing

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