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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

10
Dóm
Up the wall and via small pillar to the left of the South Crack under a large overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Dóm
From the cave of the South Crack to the right via hand crack over the ceiling to the end.… Rock Climbing
6-
Dóm
Up the center of the right part of the S wall over bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Dóm
To the right of the route South Wall over 2 bolts and from the right via small pillar to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Dóm
Up the center of the wall to the bolt, along a slanting ramp left to the edge, diagonally… Rock Climbing
6
Dóm
To the left of the Northeast Route via crack to the bolt and over the 2nd bolt of this… Rock Climbing
2
Dóm
From the massif on the N side by stepping into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dóm
Through the chimney up to the saddle to the Old Route and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Dóm
To the right of the NE edge to the 1st bolt, directly up to the ledge and up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Malá jehla
At the left edge of the valley's S wall, up to the ledge and along it to the right into a… Rock Climbing
3
Malá jehla
Along the E edge to the plateau and left to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sněhová věž
By a crack in the W wall to a grassy platform and to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Sněhová věž
SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Sedlo
From the center of the massif a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Sedlo
NE edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Sedlo
From the chimney to the right to the edge and by it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Sedlo
In the massif, traverse by ledges and by a jump to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Sedlo
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Prvorozenec
Overhang through the hole under the overhang, right to 1st K. Directly through the hole…
5
Sedlo
In the left part of the N wall by an overhanging corner/groove up to the left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Sedlo
In the right part of the N wall by a crack along the edge to a step to K. Up the wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Ledukinova věž
To the left of the route Za pár up the wall along the edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
10-/10
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
In the S wall to the right of the tourist path passage via 3 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
To the right of Šlégl's path via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
In the left part of the wall over the overhang into a crack and along the hourglasses… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Křížová věž
Via the Ptačí sokolík (Bird's Gully) route to the platform. Traverse left to the edge and… Rock Climbing
5+
Křížová věž
From the left edge of the NE wall up the crack over the overhang onto the slab, up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Křížová věž
Middle of the NE wall over 2 K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Křížová věž
Up the overhanging NW wall over the hole to the 1st K, directly up the wall into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Křížová věž
From SE up the crack into the hole, diagonally right into another hole in the NE wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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