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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Křížová věž
Up the overhanging NW wall over the hole to the 1st K, directly up the wall into a large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Křížová věž
Through an oblique notch in the SE wall for about 5m, transition left into a fissure, up… Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová věž
Up the N chimney, stepping into the left wall and left to K. Up the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Křížová věž
Up the wall left of the N chimney diagonally left to the edge (K. Directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Křížová věž
Up the N edge over 2 K. Rock Climbing
4-
Křížová věž
In the large N corner directly up the chimney. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Křížová věž
Over the 1st K of the Slavnosti blbosti (Festival of Stupidity) route to the hole, from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Křížová věž
From the large boulder into the SW wall, up left to a series of cracks and through them. Rock Climbing
3
Křížová věž
From the large block into the SW wall, up right into the crack and up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Křížová věž
From the chimney over the overhang and right to K. Up right past 4 holes to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Křížová věž
On the NW edge through the overhanging wall to the 1st K, from there directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Křížová věž
In the right part of the SW wall through a deep corner below a large overhang. Traverse… Rock Climbing
5
Drak
Left in the N wall up the crack in the corner to the balcony. Up the wall over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Křížová věž
Through the notch in the SE wall left to the saddle, up the chimney to a large platform… Rock Climbing
2+
Křížová věž
In the right part of the SW wall up the chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Křížová věž
In the right part of the SW wall briefly up the chimney and left to K. Up the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Drak
Start in the N wall from a large cave. By stepping into the overhang, up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Drak
Along the Straight Path route to a hole. Traverse the wall to the right to the lower… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Drak
On the way: Straight path to the hole. Traverse right into the wide crack and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Drak
On the way: Straight path to the hole. Traverse right into the upper elongated hole. Up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Drak
West wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Drak
Start on the West Pinnacle route a few meters up, traverse left to a sharp edge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Drak
Over a large overhang to a rock pinnacle and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dračí sluj
From the tourist path, up the wall or from the right through a notch into the cave. To… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Dračí sluj
To the right in the W face over K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
3
Lesní zátiší
Along a longer crack in the right part of the SE face n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Lesní zátiší
Start in the left part of the NE face directly up a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Lesní zátiší
Through the crack to the right of the Potní Žlázky route onto a prominent ledge. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Lesní zátiší
In the right part of the SE face, a meter from the edge to K (unprotected) and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Lesní zátiší
Start on the E edge and a clearly receding gully n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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