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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Zelená věž
To the right near the NE edge into a notch, up through it via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zelená věž
From the right onto the SE edge, along it to the platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Zelená věž
From the SW via the chimney to a mossy ledge, along it to the left and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zelená věž
From the S into the pocket and to the right (clockwise), over the bulge to the 'Orloj' … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Zelená věž
Via the SW corner into the chimney and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zelená věž
From the E edge up the wall to the right via a narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Africká věž
Up the West face, 4 m to the left of the Southwest ridge, into a notch on the right. Up… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Africká věž
To the 1st K of the Heaven Full of Memories route. Right into the overhang to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Africká věž
From V over the ceiling overhang to K of the Lunapark route and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Faraónova stěna
Completely in the left part of the massif into the hole and to the 1st K, directly to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Faraónova stěna
Up the middle of the right part of the massif into the hole and from there to the 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Faraónova stěna
To the left of the Břízová spára (Birch Crack) route over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Faraónova stěna
Along the edge to the right over K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Faraónova stěna
To the right of the Spára (Crack) route over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mumie
Through the center of the SW face via cracks to their end. Right to a ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kamenný sněhulák
In the left part of the N face over 2 K up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Rychnovská stěna
All the way to the right in the N face via a crack onto a ledge and traverse right to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the S face of the S tower into a hole (hourglass). Further… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dvojitá věž
In the right part of the W face diagonally right upwards into a hole to K and up the face… Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the S face via a crack under the overhang and over it to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá věž
To the left of the crack below the abseil point into a large hole, from there over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Dvojitá věž
In the left part of the W face to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojitá věž
To the left of the passage on the E side to K on the edge. Directly up and left to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá věž
To the left of Solivá edge in the E face to K, from there left over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dvojitá věž
In the right part of the S face over the overhang and slightly left to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
On the E side to the right of the chimney up the face to two cracks. First the right,… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá věž
Via the right crack of the East Route below the recess in the E face along the cracks to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Dvojitá věž
Through the middle of the N face from the right onto a ledge to K and directly up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Dvojitá věž
In the left part of the N face via a crack and diagonally right into a hole. Left into a… Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojitá věž
In the right part of the N face upwards into a large recess. From there into a niche and… Rock Climbing

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