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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Dvojitá věž
In the left part of the N face via a crack and diagonally right into a hole. Left into a… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojitá věž
From the NE edge left over a hole and back to the edge to K, along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Dvojitá věž
On the W side of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Blok
Below the rappel in the south wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Dvojitá věž
To the left of the chimney of the Old Route along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Blok
Through the middle of the N wall over two K n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zubatá
N wall directly over K into the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Zubatá
Through the crack in the middle of the wall to the ledge to K and directly n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Zubatá
Through the right part of the wall over holes to the ledge to K and directly n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Poliklinika
Left of the EKG route over 1 K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Poliklinika
From K directly n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Poliklinika
SW edge over the clock n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hubený doktor
Up the center of the South wall to a narrow crack. Rock Climbing
4+
Tlustý starosta
By crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tlustý starosta
From the hole in the South wall over a small overhang to another hole, left and over the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Nová věž
From the hole to the bolt and up the wall over the 2nd bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Nová věž
From the massif, traverse/step across to the right part of the tower. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nová věž
By the arête on the left to the bolt and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Nová věž
By chimney and crack from the inner side to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nová věž
By crack to the bolt and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivy před doktorem
Up the face near the SW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Nová věž
From the massif over several short steep sections to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Masivy před doktorem
Start from the stone into the hole and up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Masivy před doktorem
Along the edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Masivy před doktorem
Start from the stone into the hole and left over K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Masivy před doktorem
Through the crack to K and straight up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Masivy před doktorem
Over the hole onto the edge to K and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivy před doktorem
Up the small face directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivy před doktorem
Up the small face to the small crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Masivy před doktorem
Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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