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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Tendr
Up the middle of the E wall via 1 anchor to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tendr
By chimney between the tower and the massif into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Bílá stěna (Plachta)
Start as for Heuréka, left to the 1st anchor, up the overhanging wall to the 2nd anchor… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Krejčí
From the summit of the North Hercules Pillar descend to the ledge, jump to the upper… Rock Climbing
4-
Krejčí
From the 1st ledge directly along the SE edge. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krejčí
Start from the stone, along the NE edge via 3 K and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Krejčí
From the fore-rock/outcrop via the wall and cracks rightwards up and to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krejčí
Left of the 'Path for Šugi' over 2 BH and via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Krejčí
To the right of the 'Path for Šugi' via 4 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Krejčí
From the fore-rock/outcrop on the E side, first via the crack, from its end via the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Krejčí
Through the middle of the valley wall via 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Krejčí
In the valley wall from the left over the overhang and via the buttress to 1st K, along… Rock Climbing
5+
Krejčí
From the tourist path (by stepping into the crack and then through it into the hole … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krejčí
Up the S wall into the hole, K above it. Along the indistinct rib/ridge rightwards up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Severní Herkulův sloup
From E via the chimney to the wedged boulder. Right into the crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Krejčí
From W up the chimney to the platform of the Old Way and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Severní Herkulův sloup
From the passage of the tourist path via 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Jižní Herkulův sloup
To the right of the East Crack, over an overhang and up the wall over 2K, further along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Jižní Herkulův sloup
Up a wide crack to the left of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Jižní Herkulův sloup
In the right part of the N wall over 2 K directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Jižní Herkulův sloup
Along a narrow curved edge to K, further along the edge and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Tunelová věž
Through the middle of the W wall with shallow cracks to K, up to the right past the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Tunelová věž
At the beginning of the Old Path, upwards and immediately to the left, a long traverse to… Rock Climbing
4+
Tunelová věž
From K traverse left and there to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Tunelová věž
Along the NW edge of Teplicka Tower to a small platform about halfway up the tower and… Rock Climbing
5
Teplická věž
Through the center of the E face via the crack, overhanging in the lower part, to the… Rock Climbing
5
Teplická věž
Via the E face right upwards behind the edge and to the 1st K. Diagonally via the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Teplická věž
Through the center of the W face diagonally left upwards into the crack and via it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Teplická věž
Via the face and rib to the right of the NW edge diagonally left upwards to K. Further by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Teplická věž
From the ledge on the edge right to the first crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing

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