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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Pevnost
From the West, via an inclined wall and the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pevnost
From the Southwest arête of the Elephant Pillar, a jump to the Northwest corner and then… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
From the West, via an inclined wall to the right and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Pevnost
Completely to the left on the valley wall, over the hole below the crack and up a small… Rock Climbing
6-
Pevnost
Via a 'sokolík' (small pinnacle/rib/arete) into a hole to the left to the bolt, directly… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
In the left part of the valley wall, into an inclined crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pevnost
On the wall left of the South Wall route, via the K (bolt/ring) into the hole. From its… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
On the valley wall of the tower via a prominent crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5
Pevnost
To the ledge of the Southeast Route to the bolt. From there directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Pevnost
On the edge via a crack to a step, up a 'sokolík' (small pinnacle/rib/arete) to a ledge,… Rock Climbing
5+
Pevnost
Left of the route "South Crack", over 'sokolíky' (small pinnacles/ribs/aretes) via two… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Pevnost
In the left part of the East face via a crack, and from its end, up a notch to the left… Rock Climbing
5
Pevnost
To the ledge of the Southeast Route, right onto the edge and over 3 bolts to the summit.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Pevnost
Right of the Southeast Route via an edge over 3 bolts to the 4th bolt of the route "Gift… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Pevnost
Completely in the right part of the East face over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Pevnost
From the East, either via a system of chimneys to the main tower, or right via a chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Pevnost
In the right part of the East face up a diagonal chimney, traverse into a notch and… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Pevnost
From the fore-rock over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Pevnost
From the large blocks of the Old Route, left via steps and up a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pevnost
Along the NE edge over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Tlouštík
In the right part of the valley wall over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tlouštík
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Alka
Directly up the center of the narrow SE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Alka
From the slope via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Alka
Via the slabby valley wall over K to the top of the pillar. Further as the Valley Route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Alka
To the left of the passage, via the edge to a step and higher up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Alka
To the left in the N wall via a falcon (steep crack) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Alka
To the left in the N wall, left to the tooth in the edge, left to the bolt hanger. Via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Alka
Start via the overhanging corner from the passage between the tower and the pillar. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Alka
From the right to the top of the pillar and via an inconspicuous corner under the… Rock Climbing

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