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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Alka
To the left in the N wall briefly to a step and up the wall. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Alka
To the right into the notch and up it. Rock Climbing
6-
Hadí věž
From the 1st ring of the Valley Route right to a ledge, higher up the left part of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Masiv klasiků
Far left over a hole to the 1st bolt. By the wall (loop) via the 2nd bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Masiv klasiků
By the prominent pillar in the middle of the wall via two bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Masiv klasiků
Right of the corner in the left part of the wall via 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Masiv klasiků
In the left part of the wall, left of the corner, via 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Masiv klasiků
Left of the chimney by the wall via 2 bolts to a ledge, then left to the rappel bolt of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Špendlík
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Špendlík
By the right valley edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Špendlík
Through the middle of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Šídlo
In the upper wall to the left to a prominent tooth on the edge. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Šídlo
To the right in the upper wall via a fine crack and further along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Šídlo
Through the middle of the upper wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Šídlo
In the right part of the valley wall diagonally left to the left edge. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Šídlo
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bielefeldská stěna
Left of the Lumberjack's Chimney directly up the wall over 3 BH and sl. BH to the top. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bielefeldská stěna
To the right of the route "Inappropriate Intervention" using the edge (BH) to a shelf.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Bielefeldská stěna
The start is to the right of the route 'Forest'. Up the slabby wall along the edge to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Bielefeldská stěna
Via the route 'Sound of the Sandstone Clock' to K. From there to the right across the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zlý pes
Left of the Valley route over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Doga
Through fine cracks up to the step leading right into the middle of the wall to the roof… Rock Climbing
5+
Doga
In the middle of the valley wall to the right of the detachment. To the left through fine… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Doga
From the K of the Old Route to the left to a double crack and by it to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Libkovská skála
From the valley at the blunt edge over 3bh to the next bh. Note: The route is dedicated… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
In the NW wall diagonally right to the ledge and up the corner wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Dědova vyhlídka
From the SW edge along the crack diagonally right to the ledge. Through the corner… Rock Climbing
5
Dědova vyhlídka
To the left of the NE edge into a narrow crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Stromová věž
Left in the North face onto the ledge to the bolt. Up the overhanging wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Stromová věž
Right in the North face over the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing

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