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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Velbloud
In the upper part of the crack diagonally right by the rib and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Velbloud
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack, later by the wall upwards to the left… Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
By the left valley W edge onto the small balcony. By the overhanging edge (K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Velbloud
By the 'sokolík' (small chimney/niche) to K and directly by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Velbloud
In the right part of the valley SW wall by a crack to the pre-summit. By the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velbloud
Through the middle of the valley wall along the grooves into the right hole, over an… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Velbloud
Through the middle of the valley wall below the crack to K. By the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Velbloud
To the right of the route 'Údolní cesta' (Valley Route), by the wall and along a crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Velbloud
Start from the left part of the elongated hole right of the route "Pre-spring Route" into…
4+
Velbloud
By the SE overhanging edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
Right of the E edge by an overhanging wall (bolt), a crack and a fissure to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Velbloud
Along the E edge and left up the wall to the bolt. Left to the S edge and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Velbloud
To the right of the route 'Malá cesta' (Small Route), by the wall through a hole and… Rock Climbing
3
Velbloud
By stemming from the NE side between the tower and the massif and right by a crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Velbloud
In the N wall diagonally right up the rib and left to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Velbloud
From the NE by two steps/straddles and a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Suk
From the massif, a jump/traverse to the edge of the "Old Route". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Suk
From the plateau wall right to the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Suk
Up the right valley edge over 2 hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Suk
In the right part of the valley wall over 3 holes (hourglasses) to the bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Suk
In the left part of the valley wall (hourglasses) to the ledge. Up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Suk
Up the E wall to the bolt, over the overhang and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Suk
Up the plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Suk
Between the massif and the tower, left to the edge and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dívčí věž
Via the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Dívčí věž
Through the crack on the right in the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kominík
To the right of the route "Žebřík" (Ladder) through cracks to the 1st bolt onto a ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kominík
Through a crack in the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Kominík
To the left of the route "Štětka" (Brush) through a depression to the 1st bolt. Along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kominík
Through the corner in the middle of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing

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