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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Evropa
m left of the route "Druhej skalp" (start from the boulder), up the wall via the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing
6-
Evropa
5 m left of the previous route, through the small corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Evropa
From the stone under the overhang and over it to the bolt (BH) and through the crack to… Rock Climbing
5+
Evropa
2 m left of the large chimney, via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Evropa
Between the routes "Vrtni" and "Jalůvčí", in the middle of a large flake, directly up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Evropa
Through the corner left of the large flake, over the overhang and through the 'sokolík' … Rock Climbing
5+
Evropa
Between the routes "Otvíračka" (Opener) and "Zavíračka" (Closer) directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Evropa
5 m to the left of the previous route via cracks and corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Evropa
Through cracks and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Evropa
2 m left of the previous route, through the corner and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mléčný zoubek
From the block, step over to the left valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Evropa
By the corner left of the large terrace to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Evropa
In the right part of the Europa massif over 2 bolts (loop) to the top to the anchor bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Evropa
From the terrace to the left of the route "Tož denně" (So Daily) via the rib (crack) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Evropa
10 m to the left of the previous route via cracks and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Mléčný zoubek
From the block via the right edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mléčný zoubek
Up the middle of the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Atlantida
By the corner in the SW wall (wedged boulders) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mléčný zoubek
From the "Old Route" onto the ledge, traverse right and up the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Atlantida
Up the middle of the SE wall over 2 bolts and the summit block to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Atlantida
Start right in the SW wall to the bolt. Right up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Atlantida
To the right of the S corner by wall through the notch to the bolt and right over the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
?
Rtg masiv
Start right in the SE wall between the massif and the block to the 1st bolt. Right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Čtyřzubec
Completely left from the corner to the right and by wall over 3 bolts and from the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Čtyřzubec
Completely left by corner and wall over 2 bolts to the rappelling bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Čtyřzubec
From the 1st bolt, variant Skyline (= Panorama) directly over 2 bolts to the rappelling… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Čtyřzubec
On the 3rd pinnacle, by an overthrow/traverse from the block to the 1st bolt and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Anděl
Completely on the left of the massif (near the cave) along the edge to the platform and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Anděl
In the left part of the massif via a breakthrough (shape - elongated pyramid), over two… Rock Climbing
3
Anděl
Completely on the right, up the V. wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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