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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Zlobr
Through the chimney between Table Tower and Ogre, left by a small flake to a ledge (bh),… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Zlobr
In the right part of the massif from a block-boulder over two overhangs and 3 bh, then to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zlobr
In the middle of the wall by a crack under the overhang to the 1st bh. Overhang 2nd bh.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zlobr
J wall (start from the stone), wall along cracks over 1st and 2nd bh. under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
6-
Zlobr
By the small flake of the Swiss Army Knife route, left (1st bh) into a longitudinal crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Zlobr
In the left part of the massif (left of the route "Warming a Snake on One's Breast") by a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Zlobr
From the cave traverse by a chimney over the 1st bh. to the end of the roof-like tooth… Rock Climbing
5
Zlobr
From the 1st bh. of the "Black Mamba" route by an overhang to the left into a corner and… Rock Climbing
4+
Zlobr
Start from the cave from the 1st bh. of the "Black Mamba" route directly up the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zlobr
In the west wall to the left of the "Tired Edge" route to a ledge, over a flake or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Zlobr
In the left part of the massif to the left of the Robinson & Friday route by a structured… Rock Climbing
4+
Zlobr
Via the "Robinson & Friday" route to a ledge, by stemming to a sharp tooth (bh.) and its… Rock Climbing
3
Zlobr
In the left part of the massif (left of the massive overhanging tooth) by a slanting edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Zlobr
In the left part of the massif to the left of the large overhang by a wall to a ledge (bh… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zlobr
Between the routes "Black Mamba and Don't Push the Saw" by a crack under the 1st bh… Rock Climbing
5
Velbloud
Through the corner between the Camel and the Paw over an overhang (bh) and a chimney to… Rock Climbing
2+
Zlobr
By a notch into a large cave, by an internal chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Velbloud
By a crack-chimney in the center of the W wall to a splinter, by a small flake (bh) to… Rock Climbing
2+
Velbloud
By the eastern edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Velbloud
From the stone under the valley wall along the cracks (bh) to a ledge, diagonally right… Rock Climbing
4-
Velbloud
In the right part of the valley wall by a slab with a small flake to the terrace and a… Rock Climbing
6-
Velbloud
To the right in the W wall over an overhang (bh) into a hole, along the edge to a ledge,… Rock Climbing
6
Velbloud
Via the Bloody Steak route over 1 BH. to the pulpit (thin loop), step sideways into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Lapka
Left of the route "Sambiliong", up the wall past 2 bolts slightly diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
?
Velbloud
To the massif on the left on a large block. Briefly down and jump to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lapka
In the left part of the massif on the West wall, via the chimney between the wall and the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lapka
Start from the four-sided boulder, up its center or edge to its top, then traverse to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lapka
In the central part of the massif, right of the prominent chimney, via small cracks to… Rock Climbing
5+
Lapka
In the left part of the massif, from the corner up the wall over the overhang (ring) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lapka
In the left part of the massif, via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing

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