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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Lapka
In the left part of the massif, from the corner up the wall over the overhang (ring) and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Lapka
Via the small pillar crack in the white wall (slings) to the bolt, diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Lapka
Via the route "Sedma vrací do hry" (Seven is back in the game) to the bolt. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Lapka
In the right part of the massif, via the corner left of the "three-part" pillar to the… Rock Climbing
3
Lapka
In the central part of the massif, along the crack by the edge to the ledge and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Masiv pod chatou
Left of the route "Fialová divizna" (Purple Mullein), via the crack (sling) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Lapka
In the right part of the massif, across the "three-part" pillar to the ledge of the route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Masiv pod chatou
Completely in the left part of the massif, directly below the prominent edge, up a narrow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Masiv pod chatou
Left of the route "Ecce Castrol", up the smooth slab past the bolt to the ledge (sling),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
6
Masiv pod chatou
In the left part of the massif, left of the large corner, up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
8
Impérium
About 6 m to the right of the Henkebolos route, up the corner under the roof-like… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5+
Jarní
From the road, left from the corner, via an overhanging crack under the overhang, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Jarní
Up the NE overhanging corner crack to the left, higher up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jarní
To the left on the N wall from the ledge, up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Jarní
To the left of the "Herka a jeho kerka" route, directly up the wall to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Jarní
To the left of the "Povzdech jara" route, directly up the wall to the ring. Briefly along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Jarní
To the right of the "Povzdech jara" route, up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Jarní
To the left of the chimney, up the SW wall (K) to the step, then up the wall along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Jarní
To the left of "Větrný komín", directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4-
Jarní
Small indentation to the right of the route "Summer Pillar", the route leads through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jarní
To the right of the "Větrný komín" route, 2 meters by a chimney spread, diagonally left… Rock Climbing
4-
Jarní
Via the right Southern distinct pillar, up the face along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jarní
To the right of the "Volební čardáš" route, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Májová věž
In the right part of the NW face from the slope obliquely right past the edge into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Májová věž
From the chimney to the right past the edge into the face to the ring. Up the face along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Májová věž
Along the edge to the right of the chimney and up the face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Májová věž
Left of the chimney up the face to the ring and via the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Májová věž
Right of the chimney, directly via a blunt edge to the ring of the route "Mandragora" and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Májová věž
Start left of "Holy Inquisition". From the road directly over the overhang, from the… Rock Climbing
5+
Májová věž
Left in the NE face via a crack to a ledge and in an indistinct corner via a crack to the… Rock Climbing

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