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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Májová věž
Left of "Overhanging Crack" directly over the overhang and through the middle of the face… Rock Climbing
6-
Májová věž
Through the middle of the NE face via a crack under the roof to the ring and up the face… Rock Climbing
5+
Nalezenec
Start in the NW face to the right to the 1st bolt of the route 'Corner Intoxication', and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Májová věž
From the valley side up the face to the balcony. Through a massive overhang into a hole… Rock Climbing
6-
Májová věž
From the south via a wide chimney (bolt) to a rounded edge, then along it to a ledge … Rock Climbing
5+
Májová věž
Via the SW overhanging crack over the ledge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Nalezenec
Along the S edge to the birch, through the crack under the overhang and from the right… Rock Climbing
4-
Nalezenec
Under the overhang to the left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Nalezenec
Through the Southern corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Nalezenec
Left of the path Mokrý kout along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Nalezenec
Start in the valley face through a corner under the overhang and over 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nalezenec
Start in the right part of the SE face via a rounded gully and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4-
Nalezenec
Left of the path Břízová directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Černá vdova
Directly to the ring of the path: Worm, and by it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Nalezenec
Through the middle of the SE face to a large birch tree and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Černá vdova
From the NW edge traverse to the ring, difficult onto the ledge, right over the beak to… Rock Climbing
5+
Černá vdova
To the right in the face via a thin crack (block!) to the ledge to the hourglass of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Černá vdova
Through the South corner to the hourglass and directly to K. Through an overhanging crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Černá vdova
In the right part of the South face along the blunt pillar to K directly to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6
Černá vdova
Through the crack in the valley edge and higher over the overhang, new route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Černá vdova
Left of the path "Intestinal Catarrh" directly NW. with a blunt edge onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing
3
Černá vdova
Through the chimney between Titanic and Black Widow, new ascent. Rock Climbing
5
Černá vdova
Left of the Black Chimney up the face below the overhang (K) and over the attached… Rock Climbing
4-
Levoboček
Through the middle of the wide upper face, new ascent. Rock Climbing
4+
Levoboček
Via the left valley NW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Levoboček
With a small edge below the rappel, new ascent. Rock Climbing
5
Titanic
Left of the Middle Route via a smooth wall to the ledge and along the edge, new ascent. Rock Climbing
2+
Levoboček
Via the SE small edge, new ascent. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Titanic
Approach left of the route Oliver Hvizd, over shallow holes to the ledge to the ring.… Rock Climbing
6-
Titanic
Approach to the right part of the NW face. Up the face via small holes over the ledge,… Rock Climbing

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