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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Labužník
Through the middle of the North wall (small wall) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Labužník
By the West arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Otesánek
By the West arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Otesánek
By the South arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labužník
By the South arête to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Otesánek
Through the middle of the valley wall over an overhang to the ring (K) and slightly from… Rock Climbing
2+
Herna
Through the chimney in the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Herna
In the middle of the N wall over the overhang into a fissure, up the wall (K) directly to… Rock Climbing
5+
Herna
By the left edge of the Tin Chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Herna
Up the wall and right along the edge of the narrow left North pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Herna
By the right edge of the Tin Chimney to the ledge and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Herna
Up the W edge below the overhang, traverse left below the crack and up it to the spike.… Rock Climbing
5
Herna
Up the middle of the SW wall (main summit) by a small rib to a step to the K (bolt). Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Herna
Over the overhang in the SW wall by crack to a flake, by fissure and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Herna
Up the left part of the NW wall to a prominent spike, traverse left by the wall and along… Rock Climbing
5+
Herna
To the right of the Rolling Stone route by an overhanging crack, further by a rib and… Rock Climbing
5+
Herna
In the SW wall by an overhanging corner to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Herna
Directly up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Herna
Between the routes Four Aces and Good bye by a high move into the wall and up it below a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Herna
To the right in the SW wall by crack (hourglass, large spike) to the notch to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Herna
To the right of the "Four Aces" route, by a high move onto the blunt edge, in it by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Herna
Up the SW wall over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Herna
In the middle of the right valley wall by a high move and wall below a roof-like overhang… Rock Climbing
2+
Herna
Up the SW chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Zoo
In the left part of the NW wall directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zoo
By cracks in the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Herna
Start in the SW wall into the Plateau Route, through a crack INSIDE the chimney (8 m) up… Rock Climbing
3
Herna
In the SW wall, up the wall to the rib and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Bečka
In the left part of the NW wall directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zoo
In the right part of the NW wall directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing

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