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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Enšpígl
Far right of the valley wall via a corner over a bolt hanger to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rypouš sloní
Via the right SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Enšpígl
Far left in the NW face via a small wall to a large ledge, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Enšpígl
Through the center of the W walls to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Enšpígl
Ascent in the gully in the NW face via a crack to a large ledge, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Enšpígl
To the left of Perlička (Little Pearl) up the wall (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Enšpígl
To the left in the W face via K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Enšpígl
Via the Kejkle (Juggling) route to the ledge, traverse right (K) and up the arête along… Rock Climbing
3
Enšpígl
In the right part of the wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Enšpígl
From the large block below the wall to the balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Enšpígl
Through the center of the W face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Větrná věž
Via the "Plateau route" without building to the ledge and up the wall slightly diagonally… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Větrná věž
Through the center of the S wall over a ring and 2 hours to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Větrná věž
Left in the plateau wall (by building) to the ledge. Traverse right and via a crack to… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Větrná věž
Briefly via the pedestal, overhanging wall over hours and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Větrná věž
Along the right edge of the plateau wall (by building) and along the edge to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Větrná věž
From the start of the "Nightmare" route, go right up the wall to the hours and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Větrná věž
From the boulder at the valley wall (building from overflow) to the ledge. Traverse right… Rock Climbing
4-
Větrná věž
From the plateau via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Větrná věž
Via the valley NW overhanging edge to a sloping ledge and directly over 2 hours to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Větrná věž
Via the SW gully to the plateau. Traverse right and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zaječí doupě
From the center of the valley wall, up steps through a notch to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zaječí doupě
Through the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zaječí doupě
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zajíc
Along the SW rounded edge, up the slabby wall to the top. Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Zajíc
Up the plateau wall from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Zajíc
In the left part of the valley wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Zajíc
Up the plateau wall from the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rugbyball
Up the left upper arête and by friction in the sand to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Rebel
Up the center of the valley wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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