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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Bečka
In the left part of the NW wall directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zoo
Directly up the W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bečka
Up the middle of the NW wall along the cracks and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Bečka
Briefly through the corner between Bečka and Mísa to the ledge, then left along it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bečka
In the right part of the NW wall below the overhang, from the left over it by crack and… Rock Climbing
5+
Mísa
In the left part of the NW wall, by crack and wall (K) to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mísa
In the left part of the SW wall by a small crack and a wall (K) at the edge and up. Rock Climbing
5
Mísa
In the right part of the NW wall by a small crack at the edge and a wall (ring right… Rock Climbing
3
Mísa
Through the middle of the S pillar by a wall and up. Rock Climbing
5
Mísa
In the right part of the SW wall slightly left by the wall (K) and directly and up. Rock Climbing
4+
Perníková chaloupka
By the left valley edge and up. Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Perníková chaloupka
By the SW edge and up. Rock Climbing
3
Perníková chaloupka
Through the middle of the S wall along the block and by a crack and up. Rock Climbing
2+
Perníková chaloupka
In the valley wall on the left by a chimney and an edge and up. Rock Climbing
2+
Perníková chaloupka
In the S wall from a boulder onto a sloping block and by the right small edge and up. Rock Climbing
4-
Sfinga
Approach via Aqueduct into the overhang (cracks, pockets) and up. Rock Climbing
5+
Sfinga
In the left part of the valley wall by a crack to the ledge to the small birch, by the… Rock Climbing
4-
Sfinga
In the left part of the valley wall by the W edge and up. Rock Climbing
2+
Želva
By the left edge and up. Rock Climbing
5
Sfinga
By the right valley edge under the overhang (K) and along the edge and up. Rock Climbing
3
Sfinga
Through the middle of the valley wall by a wide chimney and up. Rock Climbing
4-
Sfinga
By the right SE small wall and up. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sfinga
In the middle of the valley wall by a crack and a wall into the overhang to the ring. … Rock Climbing
2+
Želva
By the right edge and up. Rock Climbing
3
Želva
In the left part of the valley wall and up. Rock Climbing
4+
Rypouš sloní
Through the center of the SE face into a depression and to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rypouš sloní
By stepping over from the block into an oblique crack and over steps to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Rypouš sloní
SW crack in the valley wall to the bolt hanger, over the bulge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rypouš sloní
Via the structured crack, running off to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rypouš sloní
Via the right SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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