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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Rebel
From the right onto the rounded (S) arête and up it to the summit. (climbed without a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rebel
From the left, up the wall to the right valley arête and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rebel
Up the center of the valley wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Rebel
Up the center of the upper wall without aid (or building holds), directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Lesní divadlo
To the left of the start of the "Rozpor" (Stemming/Chimney) route, directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
2+
Rebel
To the right in the upper (E) wall, diagonally right to the balcony and up the sloping… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní divadlo
To the right of the "Old Route", up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
5+
Rebel
Up the center of the upper wall, with aid (or by building holds), directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesní divadlo
To the right in the valley face, over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Lesní divadlo
In the left part of the valley wall, up a smooth rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Lesní divadlo
From the massif, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní divadlo
In the left part of the plateau face, via the small pinnacle to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní divadlo
To the right of the route "Young Falcon", up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4-
Lesní divadlo
Start about 4m to the left of the route "Young Falcon" over an overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce divadla
From the North, briefly through the chimney and optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Strážce divadla
To the right in the valley, by crack and over the edge to the left up the wall to the BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Strážce divadla
To the left in the valley, by crack to the balcony (Kinderkopf) and then by corner crack… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +3
9/9+
Kamzík
Up the overhanging South face over 2K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Strážce divadla
From the plateau over the small pillar on cut steps and a jump, or from the left by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce divadla
Through the valley South corner and optionally to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamzík
Through the corner to the left of the inscription FR 1841 to the top. Rock Climbing Laid wall
8+/9-
Trojhran
In the left part of the East face directly over 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kamzík
Along the prominent edge from the inscription FR 1841 to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trojhran
Along the valley edge directly over 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Trojhran
To the right in the West wall, diagonally right behind the edge into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Trojhran
In the right part of the East face directly over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Trojhran
From the plateau side, up the North edge past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Trojhran
Climb in the middle of the West face into the holes and up the wall past the ring to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Výroční věž
Left of the "Autumn Route" by the edge over a ring to the ledge to the hourglass and… Rock Climbing
4+
Výroční věž
To the right of the "Old Path" by crack to the saddle, to the right via a small pinnacle… Rock Climbing

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