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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9/9+
Rodinná věž
To the right of the route "Valley Crack" directly up the wall over 3R into the gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Rodinná věž
In the middle of the S wall via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rodinná věž
To the right of the route "Temple Music" via a crack and up the wall over 3R to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Rodinná věž
To the left of the "Matura Route" via the edge (ring), freely to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rodinná věž
To the right in the S wall via the corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rodinná věž
To the right in the S wall to the ring, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rodinná věž
To the left in the E wall via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rodinná věž
From E through the corner into the chimney, via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rodinná věž
To the left of the "Old Route" via an overhanging crack to the fore-summit and via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Špekáček
To the left of the "Valley Chimney" via the corner, higher up the chimney to its end and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Špekáček
To the right of the "Plateau Gully" through an indentation (hourglass), higher up to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Špekáček
In the middle of the valley wall with a pillar over 1st R to the ledge. Traverse right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Špekáček
To the left on the N side, to the right of the large corner, up the wall to the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Špekáček
To the left on the S side, up the wall to the gully and via it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Pomeranč
In the right part of the W wall into the ledge, hourglass, to the overgrown balcony from… Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
3
Jogín
Left of the start of the "Old Route", diagonally left up the wall to the block and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jogín
Completely on the left in the plateau wall, via a pillar to the fore-summit and by the… Rock Climbing
4-
Jogín
Along the blunt plateau edge directly to the fore-rock and via the Old Way to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jogín
Along the right plateau edge directly to the fore-rock and directly up the small face to… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
In the right part of the S face into the crack, along it to the fore-summit and then up… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Jogín
In the middle of the plateau face upwards and traverse left into the J face, up to the… Rock Climbing
3
Přední stráž
Middle of the SW face, through the crack and the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Obelisk
Along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Přední stráž
Left in the J face, along the edge and the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Přední stráž
Left in the NW face, along the edge and the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Přední stráž
From the block directly along the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Přední stráž
Directly up the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Přední stráž
On the plateau side upwards and traverse right to the W edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Přední stráž
In the middle of the J face, through the corner and the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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