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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Láma
Through the prominent valley corner, wall and pedestal left to the BH. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Láma
Through the prominent valley corner of the "Council of Elders" route and overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce hřbitova
From the N, descend from the massif to the ledge, traverse into the plateau gorge, cross… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mlýnská stěna
In the valley (W) wall to the right by the edge, up a small wall to the ledge to the ring… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Strážce hřbitova
To the left in the north wall, and from the route "Spi sladce" (Sleep Sweetly), ascend… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
2
Strážce hřbitova
Briefly up the plateau edge and onto the overgrown ledge in the valley wall. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Horní bílý ostroh
From the E, through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the traverse of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Müllerova věž
From the SW edge, obliquely left up the wall into the chimney and then up the chimney to… Rock Climbing
5+
Smolař
Through the center of the valley wall via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Smolař
To the left in the valley wall, ascend directly to the E edge and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Smolař
Along the V edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Smolař
Through the center of the SE face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Smolař
On the plateau side, obliquely left up the wall and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Smolař
To the right in the plateau wall, ascend the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rodiče
From the S, via a crack and chimney to a rock block, then via a chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Děti
From the S, via a chimney between Children and Parents to the balcony. (Also reachable by… Rock Climbing
5
Babička
Like the Valley Route to the large balcony and to the right along the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4-
Babička
To the left of the Old Path, via a corner and crack to a large balcony on the valley wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Babička
From the NE, via a chimney to the saddle and then via the Old Path to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Babička
In the narrow N wall, over overhangs and 2 rings to the saddle. Via the Old Path to the… Rock Climbing
5
Babička
To the left of the Old Route, up a short wall to the ring of the Magic Pouch, and along… Rock Climbing
4-
Babička
From the SW, via a crack into the saddle between Babička (Grandma) and Děti (Children).… Rock Climbing
3
Babička
Old route to the saddle and diagonally left up the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Žabák
Right of route a), up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Žabák
In the W face to the block and up the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Žabák
From the massif, traverse/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Žabák
From the S edge, left into the notch and through it below the overhang. Over it… Rock Climbing
2+
Mlýnská věž
Up the upper face to the pillar and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Deštivá jehla
Directly up the center of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Srbský pilíř
Left in the NE wall via a crack (ring), higher directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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