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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Koráb
By rib in the west face to a large hole (slings) to the piton, by structured wall upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Koráb
By crack right of the prominent edge to the ledge, from there into the hole and right… Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
The route leads through a large overhang in the right part of the massif. Start left via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Koráb
Right in the W face directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Lebka
Rock Climbing
4-
Lebka
Rock Climbing
3
Lebka
By a wide chimney to the grassy ledge. Overhanging corner over large blocks upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Andromeda
Left by the wall and crack to the ledge, further by the wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Lebka
NW edge over 1st bolt to a spacious balcony. Left over the overhanging crack (2nd bolt)… Rock Climbing
5
Andromeda
Left in the north face by a smooth wall over the 'Stone Shepherd menhir' to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Andromeda
Up the center of the valley wall via a sokolík to a detached block. Traverse 2 m right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Andromeda
In the left part of the valley wall (left of route 'Up to the Heights') via a smooth wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Andromeda
Up the center of the SW face via a crack and small wall to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Stolová hora
To the right of the route 'Tired Tourist' via a crack to the ring and a small wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Stolová hora
Along the edge to the summit (n.t.). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Stolová hora
Left in the NW face via a small wall and a crack to the balcony and a small wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Stolová hora
2 m left via a narrow wall right to the edge. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Stolová hora
From the North via a chimney to the summit (n.v.). Rock Climbing
6-
Stolová hora
Along the right edge of the valley wall to a ledge under the overhang. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Stolová hora
To the right of the route 'Boots, attention! March!' via a sokolík and a crack under the… Rock Climbing
5
Stolová hora
Via the sokolík and higher up via cracks slightly right under the overhang and to the… Rock Climbing
3
Ponocný
Through the left notch and the wall from the right over the overhang n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Trubač
Through the prominent notch n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ponocný
Through the middle of the NW valley wall via a crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ponocný
From NW over blocks to the upper side and through the middle of the wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ponocný
From the North edge via crack and wall n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ponocný
Through the crack chimney n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Vosa
Via the gully on the left in the wall to the ledge and by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Ponocný
From the massif via a jump n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Ponocný
In the upper right wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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