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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Ponocný
In the upper right wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4
Vosa
To the right via the crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Husar
Right at the edge over the overhang n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Husar
Through the gully below the overhang, from the right n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Husar
Through a crack in the center of the wall below the overhang (loop) and through it n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Husar
Completely to the right through a crack or wall n.t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bubeník
Through the center of the NW wall over the overhang n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bubeník
Entry in the NW wall (left of the Northwest route) via a distinct slab over the largest… Rock Climbing
2+
Bubeník
Stepped NE edge n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bubeník
Right on the NW Through a crack left n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bubeník
From the band on the NW side through the wall to the right and through a crack along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bubeník
Left in the valley wall through cracks and wall n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Bubeník
Completely to the left in the valley wall from the Z band (hours) blunt edge over K n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Bubeník
Wall and crack to K, wall n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Bubeník
Along the right valley edge over K n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Bubeník
Completely to the right in the wall through a notch n.v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bubeník
Through the center of the wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Posel
From the wide chimney J via the wall n. t. Rock Climbing
2+
Posel
Southwest chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Posel
To the left in the valley wall towards the clock, right edge n. t. Rock Climbing
4+
Posel
Left valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing
4+
Posel
Right blunt valley edge n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Posel
Along the cracks on the shelf and short crack n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Posel
Left into the wardrobe Z with an edge on the shelf and wall n. t. Rock Climbing
4+
Posel
Wall to the right in the valley wall n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojče
Rock Climbing
2
Skříň
Rock Climbing
4-
Skříň
Rock Climbing
5
Hrádek
To the left, up the stepped valley wall to a ledge, then left of the 'Descent' chimney,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hrádek
To the left of the edge, up a short wall and a notch. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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