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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Hrádek
Up the smooth wall to the left of the 'Descent'. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Hrádek
Up a short crack and an inclined chimney. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hrádek
Via the right chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hrádek
To the left of the valley edge, up a crack to a ledge and then further up via another… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Hrádek
Via a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hrádek
Via the flake to the right in the valley wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vyhlídka
Up the pillar wall (ring) to the terrace. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hrádek
Via the left blunt edge of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrádek
Briefly up the chimney and right via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hrádek
Up the wall to the right on the pillar near the flat crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyhlídka
Via a subtle notch to the ring, up the wall from the right to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídka
Via the crack in the middle of the wall to the ledge. Left to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vyhlídka
Via the notch and overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vyhlídka
Via the crack in the middle of the wall to the ledge. Right to the ring, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vyhlídka
Via cracks to the ring, right behind the edge into the gully (sling) and over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vyhlídka
Via the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Starý Trantor
From the bivouac, left of the route "Rejžák" over the overhang to a ledge (sling). Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Nosatec
In the right part of the plateau wall, an overflow from the massif and by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Samotář
To the left in the W wall to K, from the left to the balcony and to the left along the… Rock Climbing
5
Samotář
To the left of the route 'Světlo a perla' via 2 K up. Rock Climbing
4-
Samotář
Up the wide crack in the W wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Samotář
To the right in the upper wall via the corner and the wall up. Rock Climbing
4+
Samotář
Up the center of the SW wall via K. Rock Climbing
5
Samotář
To the right of the route, the SW crack up the rib, traverse left across the crack into… Rock Climbing
4+
Samotář
Up the overhanging W edge with the help of the crack via K. Rock Climbing
4+
Samotář
To the left in the SW wall via the crack up. Rock Climbing
4-
Samotář
To the right in the SW wall to the small pillar and to the right via the hollow… Rock Climbing
2
Samotář
Up the upper wall. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Soudek
From the South from the massif, a traverse into the wall and directly up it. Rock Climbing
4+
Soudek
Via the bracing chimney between Špalek and Soudek to the ledge to K. Up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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