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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Špalek
From the W via the plateau crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Špalek
Right in the N face directly up the wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Koberce
Right in the S face via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Drn
Up the wall to the right of the valley edge to a hole and left to K. Further up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Drn
Through the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Drn
Right in the wall via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Koberce
From the SE edge through holes to the 1st K. Left onto the edge and along it to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Koberce
Through the left eastern chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koberce
Through the first chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Koberce
From the 1st K of the 'Peršan' route up the wall to the 2nd K and via the crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Koberce
In the right part of the E face via a fine crack to K and over the 2nd K to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Koberce
Right in the E face along the edge to K. Up the small pillar/chimney and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Koberce
Up the NE face over BH and 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Koberce
Right in the N face diagonally left to K, from there right onto the ledge and left along… Rock Climbing
2
Koberce
From the W onto a grassy ledge and up a short chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mechová věž
Left in the N face up the wall over the 1st K to the 2nd dK and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mechová věž
From the 2nd K slightly down traverse left behind the edge under the overhang (belay) and… Rock Climbing
5+
Mechová věž
In a narrow pillar to the right of the Old Route over K to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Koberce
Along the edge to the left of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Koberce
From the S between the massif and the tower, diagonally left up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Mechová věž
From the 2nd K directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Mechová věž
Through the center of the NE face over the 1st K to the 2nd K. (By standing) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Mechová věž
To the right of the route "Breath of the Dead Lover" up the 'salted' (textured) wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mechová věž
Along the right edge in the valley NE face over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mechová věž
From the NW by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mechová věž
Through the center of the N face and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mechová věž
Through the center of the SW face over the hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mechová věž
Up the wall to the right of the Northwest Chimney over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Mechová věž
To the right in the S face, up the overhanging wall to the ring. Briefly right and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mechová věž
To the right of the S crack into the hole and left to the ring. Up the wall and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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