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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Mechová věž
To the right in the S face, up the overhanging wall to the ring. Briefly right and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mechová věž
To the right of the S crack into the hole and left to the ring. Up the wall and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
From the 1st ring left to the edge and along that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mechová věž
By the SE chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Mechová věž
By the hollow left of the Old Route, up the wall (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mechová věž
From the E edge of the tower diagonally left to the ring. Below the ring briefly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Mravenčí věž
From the 1st ring of the East Route, through the hole to the 2nd ring and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
Start from the adjacent boulder in the east face to the hole, from there traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
From the boulder at the SE face directly over 2 rings, higher up from the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
Directly to the 2nd ring of the Hunter's Route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
In the right part of the S face up into the hole and diagonally left to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí věž
Just to the right of the SW edge, traverse the wall left behind the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mravenčí věž
From the edge over the 'dK' to the 2nd ring of the East Route and along the edge, or to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mravenčí věž
From the 1st ring of the Old Route, right along the edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severozápadní vrchol
Along the N edge (bolt) to the bolt of the Northwest route and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Via the groove in the center of the S wall of the S tower diagonally left (K) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the 1st K, traverse left into the chimney in the E wall and by that to the summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
From the 2nd K, right into the indistinct corner of the corner, via the small chimney… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Left of the Northern Chimney, up the rib to K, overhanging wall through the holes to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Blíženci - severovýchodní a jižní vrchol
Through the small chimney in the middle of the N wall of the NE tower diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Vyhlídková věž
From the summit of Ariane, jump to the shelf. Slightly left to the large platform of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková věž
By the Old Route to the large platform, traverse right into the crack and onto the step.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vyhlídková věž
From the S summit of Blíženci (Twins), descend a few meters along the South edge and then… Rock Climbing
6-
Vyhlídková věž
Up the SE edge, traverse right into the crack and up into the large hole. Left into the… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková věž
In the right part of the E wall via the small chimney and crack under the overhang (… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Vyhlídková věž
Jump from the Easter Tower to the ledge in the E wall. Right and up the chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková věž
By the Old Route below the large platform, traverse right around the tower into the E… Rock Climbing
4-
Vyhlídková věž
Through the corner from the NE to the large platform and by the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídková věž
Along the V edge over 2 K to the shelf (left of the 'Travel Fever' route), freely to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vyhlídková věž
Left of the North-East Route's corner, up the NE edge and through the small chimney (K),… Rock Climbing

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