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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Vyhlídková věž
Left of the North-East Route's corner, up the NE edge and through the small chimney (K),… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vyhlídková věž
Along the V edge over 2 K to the shelf (left of the 'Travel Fever' route), freely to the… Rock Climbing
5
Vyhlídková věž
Through a crack from the Southwest under a large overhang to a ledge, up the wall and… Rock Climbing
2+
Vyhlídková věž
Through the chimney between Observation Tower and South Tower of the Twins to a large… Rock Climbing
4-
Vyhlídková věž
Through the crack in the NW edge to the small balcony, along the ledge to the left and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková věž
To the left of the Southeast edge into a notch and onto the large ledge of the "Old Way".… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vyhlídková věž
By opposition against Ariane and along the crack to the 1st bolt hanger (BH). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Vyhlídková věž
Through the inner chimney at the West edge to the large platform of the Northwest fore… Rock Climbing
4-
Velikonoční věž
Start on the East face into an overhanging crack, over the overhang and higher up a… Rock Climbing
3
Velikonoční věž
To the right of the Old Way, through a notch to the edge and along that to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Velikonoční věž
Through a crack in the right part of the South face to the Southeast edge and along that… Rock Climbing
3
Velikonoční věž
Through a crack in the South face, left behind the edge and up a chimney below the summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Velikonoční věž
From the start, up a crack to below the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Velikonoční věž
Through the opposition chimney between Ariane and Easter Tower into the chimney and via… Rock Climbing
6-
Velikonoční věž
On the valley face, over the overhang to the small pinnacle and to K. Up the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kyklop
Through the wide chimney to the hourglass. Further up the face of the pillar to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Kyklop
Through the chimney between Lorelei and Kyklop, higher up like the 'Jihovýchodní komín' … Rock Climbing
3
Kyklop
Through the gully from the SE to the balcony. Up the face and edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kyklop
Along an indistinct edge over 2 pitons to the hourglass of the Valley Route. Up that for… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kyklop
In the center of the E face directly through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kyklop
In the right part of the SE face through a crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kyklop
Right of the SE chimney through an overhanging crack under the overhang and right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kyklop
Along the right valley edge over 2 pitons to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kyklop
In the right part of the valley face over 2 pitons to the 2nd piton of the 'Pravá údolní… Rock Climbing
4+
Kyklop
In the left part of the W face through a system of cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kyklop
Up the face along the left valley edge to a piton. Via the steep slab and the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kyklop
Start from the left along an inclined bench into the corner. Through cracks under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kyklop
From the 2nd piton of the 'Invaze' (Invasion) route to the 3rd piton. Diagonally right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kyklop
m left of the 'Západní komín' (West Chimney) route, through the crack into the notch and… Rock Climbing
6
Kyklop
Through the overhanging W face over 2 pitons, higher up left into the crack of the West… Rock Climbing

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